Beyond the Tourist Trail

Day 1: Arrive Airport (Negombo) – Thalahena (Driving time is approx. 40 minutes)

On arrival, meet our local team and transfer to a family-run villa called Villa Hundira Overnight Villa Hundira or similar. (D) 

Day 2: Thalahena

After breakfast, we set out on a boat ride along the Negombo lagoon and as you go, keep a close eye on the birdlife as this is the best time for spotting them. We also pass through the mangroves which is yet another eco system of shrubs and trees unique to coastal intertidal zones. We then explore Negombo city. After the tour we return to the villa where the rest of the day is at leisure. Overnight Villa Hundira or similar (BD) 

Negombo

Negombo is the beach town in the closest proximity to the airport. What is even more remarkable about the city is that it still has a little bit of the colonial charm left from the Dutch period especially. Dutch influenced architecture still can be seen in the old Dutch fort as well as churches. However, with development in the tourism sector, more and more buildings are coming up and now is the best time to visit before the atmosphere changes forever. 

Day 3: Negombo – Sigiriya – Ritigala – Sigiriya (Overall approx. driving time today is 5 hours)

After breakfast, you will drive towards Sigiriya located at the heart of Sri Lanka’s celebrated cultural triangle. This afternoon you visit the off-the-beaten-track gem of Ritigala Archaeological Monastery; an extraordinary complex sequestered in the jungle and often over-looked by the regular tourist. After the visit, you return to Sigiriya for the overnight stay. Overnight at Kassapa Lion’s Rock, Sigiriya or similar. (BD) 

Ritigala

Ritigala is most certainly shrouded in an air of the undiscovered and still retains a curiously mysterious ambience owing to the long meditational pathways that spill into dense jungle and large stone-lined ritualistic reservoirs. It is a splendid world away from the more celebrated and bustling historical tourist sites in the country and preserves a wonderfully peaceful aura. Ensure you take time to explore the ruins in depth and walk all the way to the higher reaches of the complex for a truly holistic appreciation of the site. There is time here too to sit awhile and connect with nature in the sacred ancient meditation grounds. 

Day 4: Sigiriya UNESCO

This morning you arrive at Sigiriya Rock Fortress (UNESCO) early at around 7am, in the still relative cool of the day and in the soft light and this also beats the main throng of tourist crowds. Referred to by Sri Lankans as the 8th wonder of the world, this breathtakingly beautiful and dramatic site is a rare jewel among the many treasures in Sri Lanka. You will explore some of the interesting features in the lower sections of the site such as the Royal Gardens and the water gardens, set amidst a stunning wooded wilderness. On your ascent of the rock fortress, take time to linger at the wonderfully preserved frescoes, depicting buxom, wasp-waisted maidens bearing flowers. Enjoy the amazing 360-degree views from the top of Sigiriya. Time slips rapidly away in this incredible place and all too soon it will be time to descend. You take a well-earned rest at a close-by local restaurant in leafy Habarana to enjoy yet another delicious lunch that captures the very essence of village cuisine. Lakmal, proprietor of the establishment, takes particular pride in pleasing guests with his coconut sambol, best enjoyed with rice and bread. After lunch you press on to Hurulu and set out on a jeep safari aiming to see wild elephants in their natural habitat. After the safari, head back to the hotel. Overnight at Kassapa Lion’s Rock, Sigiriya or similar. (BD). 

Sigiriya Rock

It is hard to overstate the stunning beauty and drama of Sigiriya. Named after the vast lion (‘Lion Rock’) whose base and paws still dominate the 5th century fortress’ gateway, the site has had several functions.  British archaeologists began excavations in the late nineteenth century, having found a landscape entirely overrun by nature, and considered that the earliest settlers came nearly 5 thousand years ago, though the first substantial building wasn’t until the late 400s AD when the rock summit fortress and surrounding complexes were built as a more secure capital.  By the violent end of his reign, the capital went elsewhere and a Buddhist monastery grew up which endured until the 14th century.  During its occupation, both the elaborate citadel and its surrounding moats, terraces and breath-taking gardens were examples of truly exquisitely planned urban development.

In particular, visitors come to view the mirror wall and extraordinary frescoes which once probably covered the majority of the rock sides, indicating the sheer opulence and the grand scale King Kashyapa’s project. 

Please note that the Lion Rock ascent takes approximately 1½ to 3 hours, depending on your preferred pace. There is no rock climbing involved, only stairs, but visiting the frescoes should not be undertaken by people with joint problems, breathing difficulties, heart problems or vertigo. The top of the rock is exposed, so wearing a hat is advisable. The lower sections of the site still hold a great deal of interest from a historical perspective and the museum is excellent. 

Day 5: Sigiriya – Kandy (Driving time is approx. 3 hours)

Today you proceed to Kandy, the last stronghold of the Sinhalese Kings, a pleasant city surrounded by lush green countryside. Upon arrival, you will take some time to wander around the idyllic lake and stroll its maze of copious old shops, bustling markets and great restaurants. Perhaps watch the colourful processions that make their noisy way down to the fascinating Dalada Maligawa or Temple of the Tooth (a UNESCO world heritage site), so called because it contains a sacred tooth belonging to Lord Buddha. Contrast the holy hush of the temple with the booming, energetic drums that accompany the elaborately costumed performers of a Kandyan dance show. Overnight Hotel Suisse or similar. (B)  

Kandy

Set in a relatively temperate zone, Kandy is encircled by lofty hills and lies at the heart of the hill-country. Its altitude makes it cooler than the coast, but it lies in a basin alongside the River Mahaweli and so can still be hotter and drier than surrounding hill towns. The kingdom of Kandy is the very fabric of legends: it dates back to the 14th century and saw a fiercely independent and successful era, repelling a series of invasions from the Portuguese, Dutch and British until finally succumbing to colonial rule under George III of Britain in 1815. The city has continued to grow, being the Allied headquarters for South-East Asia in World War 2 and the modern, vibrant culture is based around the gemstone, tea and textile industries, the wares of which are all worth perusing during your visit. Visitors come largely to see the religious site at the Temple of the Tooth, a major pilgrimage destination, the delightful botanical gardens and the fascinating museum.  Further afield, the hills and peaks afford superb trekking opportunities. 

Temple of the Tooth

The courtyard is brim-full of worshipers of every age and origin, bearing offerings in their hands – young coconut leaves, the air awash with the aromas of fresh petals and succulent fruits. As the door opens, the pilgrims surge along the dim, narrow stairway towards the argent and ivory portal beyond which the Buddha’s tooth lies. The doors are opened and a flood of exotic, heavy-scented air floods out. The golden karandua-casket of the tooth stands revealed obscurely behind gilded bars. The ornate golden candelabra casts am ethereal light through which yellow-robed priests move to and fro. The tooth is enclosed in five karandua and slowly and solemnly each is removed, some liberally encrusted with precious stones – rubies, emeralds and diamonds. At last the great unveiling arrives and, as the last karandua is shed, amidst silken folds a first glimpse is allowed of the wondrous relic.  

Day 6: Rural life outside of Kandy

This morning you will take a short drive from the centre of Kandy to a village where you embark on a walk connecting the fabled twin temples of Galdaladeniya and Lankathilake, gracefully hidden away amidst the hills of Kandy.  Stroll in amongst rice fields bordering small villages and enjoy the verdant countryside all he while observing locals tending to their gardens and rice fields. Periodically stopping along the way, discover an array of resplendent fruits, vegetables and spices that thrive in the climate.  The locals are extremely hospitable and will appreciate a wave and a smile as you pass. Towards the end of the walk, you will visit the house of C.G. Gunasoma, an 8th generation (and probably the last) descendant of a long line of professional optometrists who were bound to the service of the kings as far back as the 14th century.

Gunasoma will demonstrate how quartz is made into a lens, raising the profile of and helping to secure a future for a little known but invaluable part of Sri Lankan Heritage that our local team are fighting to preserve.  Overnight Hotel Suisse or similar. (BL) 

Note: For this walk, ensure you take plenty of water, sunhat and sunscreens as well as insect repellent. Please also take a take a Sarong or a shawl to cover yourself when you visit the temples.

Day 7: Kandy – Nuwara Eliya (Driving time is approx. 3 hours) – Nanu Oya - Ella by train (Approx. 3-hour local train journey)

After an early breakfast, snake into the lush hills of the tea country towards the often mist-shrouded hill station of Nuwara Eliya. Take a short walk around the town in the cooler air at 1868m above sea level. Next, continue to nearby Nanu Oya and experience a magical train journey through Sri Lanka’s luxuriant hills. Sit back and relax, enjoying splendid views of tea plantations in the foreground and emerald mountains beyond. The journey leads you through a multitude of tunnels and across dramatic bridges, punctuated by stops at small village halts where one can gain an insight into the hustle and bustle of local life. At Haputale Railway Station, disembark and transfer to the overnight accommodation. Overnight at Morning Dew Hotel or similar – No Air Conditioning. (BD) 

Note: Seats on the train can be confirmed only 21 days prior to the date of travel. Seats from any particular class compartment cannot be guaranteed and will be subject to availability. We reserve the right to change the route of the train journey based on availability. 

Nuwara Eliya

Much has changed since the heyday of the town in the 1920s and 30s, yet the climate is still pleasant, even amidst a cool drizzle or sometimes a gentle veil of fog. Today Nuwara Eliya is a town re-inventing itself. After the civil war and with the advent of tourism, a vibrant and proud Sri Lankan culture has surmised that colonial heritage is perhaps something to be embraced rather than rejected, at least in terms of a revival for commercial reasons. Old derelict bungalows have been patched up, and the guidebooks dub the town "Little England". The reality is somewhere in between, but it is possible to see the faded glories of the past; yet the present equally offers an enigmatic paradox of a regular Sri Lankan town that wants to look fondly at the past yet is still not quite sure how to face the future. A must-read before coming to Nuwara Eliya is ‘Running in the Family’ by Michael Ondaatje which relates the story of a dysfunctional family of tea planters, adding compelling perspective to the whole experience.

Day 8: Ella

Early in the morning, set out on a short hike to the Little Adams Peak. This can be easily done as the hike itself takes only about one hour and the views of the valley and surrounding hills is simply stunning. The best weather is early morning when the skies are clear and the morning air is fresh and cool. Afterwards we visit a small family run estate to see the process of how they produce artisanal tea and coffee. Depending on the production schedule, you may also be able to see how they hand-process their tea and other products and even try your hand at plucking and rolling your own batch of tea. Afterwards you can enjoy a tea tasting session. Return to your hotel and spend the afternoon at leisure. Overnight at Morning Dew Hotel, Ella or similar (BD) 

Day 9: Ella – Buduruwagala - Udawalawe National Park (Driving time is approx. 2 hours)

After a relaxed breakfast, you will depart the hill country and begin your descent towards Udawalawe, the territorial heartland of wild elephants. En route, you visit the secluded archaeological site of Buduruwagala (literally ‘the rock with the Buddha statues’), definitely not on the standard tourist itinerary. It is a very quiet site and a perfect place to stretch the legs amongst a wonderful fusion of history and nature. On arrival at Udawalawe the rest of the day is at leisure to relax by the pool. Overnight Centauria Wild, Udawalawe or similar. (BD) 

Day 10: Udawalawe elephant transit home and safari

This morning, there is an optional visit of the Udawalawe Elephant Transit Home which is another interesting project tending to injured/orphaned Elephant calves to don the skills to survive in the wild.  Although the visitors are not permitted to be up-close and personal with the elephants, the feeding times of baby elephants scheduled four times daily (9 am, 12 noon, 3 pm and 6 pm) provide wonderful opportunities to observe them and can be a very pleasurable experience. The Transit Home tends to attract a heavy footfall of tourists, so you may prefer to spend your morning at leisure.  Later, under soft afternoon light, embark on a wonderful safari at Udawalawe National Park where you should hope to enjoy some excellent elephant sightings. Overnight Centauria Wild, Udawalawe or similar. (BD) 

Udawalawe National Park

Established only as recently as 1972, the Park is in area of former ‘chena’ farming – a form of shifting cultivation that has kept the landscape relatively youthful and hence a thriving habitat for a rich diversity of wildlife across its 199 square miles. Much of the vegetation is low scrub, marshes and water fringes, so viewing animals is relatively straightforward; however, there are rivers, wooded areas and hill ranges which add to the variety of species here. Central to it all, and the major draw for many species is the reservoir, offering a stable water source, marshy fringes covered in thousands of wading birds and enough prey to draw in a host of eagle species to hunt and fish. As with most safaris, the prize species such as the 250 elephants – which give fabulous views – and leopard are only the tip of the iceberg and the park is dripping with birds, reptiles, deer, wild boar, civets, etc.  Amongst the fascinating cross-section of fauna are the delightful Sri Lankan spotted chevrotain, the Golden jackal, the threatened Golden palm civets and Mugger crocodiles. Those keen on birding may well be rewarded with sightings of endemics such as Red-faced malkoha, Sri Lanka grey hornbill and Sri Lanka jungle fowl and few can fail to be impressed by views of the splendid Indian peafowl or the exotic Malabar pied hornbill. Although well-visited, the grandeur and breadth of the vistas gives a sense of solitude and separation from other safari vehicles and you can expect a busy, action-packed visit where you rarely are able to put down you cameras or binoculars. 

Day 11: Udawalawe – Yala National Park (Driving time is approx. 2 hours)

This morning you travel to Yala National Park, internationally acclaimed as the jewel in Sri Lanka’s wildlife viewing crown. After checking in at the hotel, embark on a mesmerising afternoon safari in the little visited Block 5 (subject to local permission). The more popular areas of Yala National Park are generally packed full of vehicles, so instead you will delve deeper into the park to Block 5 which is rarely frequented by tourist jeeps. It has a slightly lower density of leopards than the more popular areas of the park (though the designer of this tour did however spot one!), but the scenery is alluring and the anticipation of what, amongst a myriad of possibilities, may be around the corner is nothing short of thrilling. Overnight Big Game Camp or similar – Not air conditioned. (BD) 

Yala National Park

Yala proudly boasts that it possesses a higher leopard density than anywhere else in the world and this is sufficient to make it famous as a site where leopard viewing is an excellent possibility.  Founded as a National park in 1938, Yala has always been a wilderness area and the park now consists of 5 designated areas, two of which are open for public safaris. 

In the rainy season the water sources and rivers are abundant, but by the drier months wildlife tends to congregate around pools, lagoon and tanks to feed, offering some superb chances for observing some of the 350 elephants, 25 leopards and countless water buffalo, toque macaque, civets, fishing cat and sloth bears.  Bird watchers will find Yala equally rewarding – pelicans, flamingos, eagles and flycatchers are some of the families amongst the 215 species recorded here, whilst special treats come with the seven endemics – Blue-tailed bee-eater Sri Lanka wood pigeon, Crimson-fronted barbet, Black-capped bulbul, Sri Lanka grey hornbill, Sri Lanka junglefowl and Brown-capped babbler.  A useful tip is to be willing to travel some distance: the quieter areas tend to be the less disturbed and offer the most rewarding and breathtaking vision of what Yala truly has to offer. 

Day 12: Yala National Park – Galle – Ahangama (Driving time is approx. 4 hours)

Starting early, you follow the palm-lined roads of the tropical south coast.  After checking in to your hotel in Ahangama, you will spend the afternoon exploring nearby historic Galle, wandering the back streets and the crumbling ramparts of the Old Dutch fort.  You can even enjoy some thambili from a local vendor or savour some crispy vaddais. After the visit of Galle Fort you return to the hotel. Overnight Garton’s Cape or similar. (BD) 

Galle

A fascinating blend of cultures lends Galle a sense of being a step back in time. The effervescent Sri Lankan spirit abounds, yet here it is set in a world of Dutch and British colonial influence. The old town is positioned on a peninsula on Sri Lanka’s south west coats and circuitous and seductive cobbled streets open out into grand military edifices: Galle’s history as a vital trading post for hundreds of years is never far from the consciousness here. The sea air combines with the tropical warmth to lend a languor and dreaminess to a visit.  In the afternoon, the ramparts of the fort which lies at the heart of the old city swell with people coming to view the simply breath-taking silence of sun dipping in the sky. Alongside, the city’s obsession with cricket is everywhere, with games seemingly springing up on every street corner. Galle’s significance as a port dates back to at least 1400 BC and cinnamon has long been exported throughout the Mediterranean and beyond, a prized trading partner of such as the Egyptians, Persians, Greeks, Chinese and Malays. European domination is relatively modern, though the fort, Jesuit cathedral and Amangalla historic hotel are major draws to visitors, alongside the Shiva temple, the close-by beautiful beaches, and the buzzing cafés and gelaterias. 

Day 13: Kanneliya Rainforest

The morning opens by enjoying a unique visit to a snake expert’s house, set close-by the entrance to Kanneliya Forest. Vishan is a knowledgeable naturalist who has made a career of collecting reptiles from the residences and gardens of locals, checking on their welfare and then releasing them back into their natural rainforest habitat. His experiences and wealth of expertise make for fascinating conversations which will educate you on these beautiful and inscrutable creatures. Once you have shared your traditional cup of local tea, you will be escorted into the heart of the incredible rainforest by Upal, a local guide and tracker, who knows the area intimately. Amazingly, this is one of conservation’s true triumphs, being reclaimed in the 1970s from logging and severe habitat loss. Keep your eyes peeled for spotting many of the exquisite endemic birds, snakes and lizards as you make your way along its dappled forest paths, whilst Upal instructs you on the amazing diversity of flora and fauna that makes calls this home. After you have visited a small cave where a huge colony of innumerable bats roost, relax by an idyllic waterfall where a clearing comes alive with a kaleidoscope of colourful dragonflies and butterflies. The excursion culminates in a delicious rice and curry spread, prepared by Upul’s wife, served on the banks of the nearby Nannikitha River, a lovely spot for an optional swim. Later, return to the hotel at Ahangama. Overnight at Garton’s Cape or similar. (BLD) 

Day 14: Ahangama at leisure

Today is spent at leisure for you to independently enjoy the languidly beautiful tropical south coast: you might explore the local small town by tuk-tuk, head out to view nearby Koggala Lagoon’s islets and bountiful birdlife, see the turtle conservation work being accomplished there, or simply enjoy its low-key white beaches and surfing opportunities. Overnight at Garton’s Cape or similar. (BD) 

Day 15: Ahangama – Colombo (Driving time is approx. 3 hours)

This morning you drive to Colombo. After checking in at the hotel and having some time to relax, in the afternoon you will meet a local guide who will help you explore behind the scenes of Colombo. Travelling in Tuk-tuks you first visit a street food joint at the Galle Face Green and enjoy the taste of Kottu Rotti, an everyday Sri Lankan meal not to be missed and always best enjoyed on the street. Then it’s time to experience the evening market at Pettah, observing the local vendors who throng to its buzzing hub from sundry corners of Sri Lanka to sell their vast array of goods. Perhaps sample some of the seasonal fruits on offer. You will also tread the bustling back-streets of Slave Island, again immersing yourself amongst the locals going about their daily rituals. Overnight at Galle Face Hotel or similar (BD) 

Day 16: Colombo – Airport (Negombo) (Driving time is approx. 1 hour) 

Transfer to the airport at the appropriate time for your onward flight. (B)