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Sudan - The Kingdom of Black Pharaohs

Trip Rating: Traveller

Day 1 - UK to Khartoum
Daytime travel to Khartoum via Frankfurt or Amsterdam
Airport to hotel transfer
Overnight Grand Holiday Villa hotel or similar

Day 2 - Khartoum – Karima
Breakfast at the hotel and then visit the Archaeological Museum that, besides many beautiful objects, contains two full temples rescued by UNESCO and moved from the Lake Nasser area, when it was flooded following the construction of the Aswan Dam. After lunch, we begin the journey northward through the Western desert. We travel through the flat desert before reaching Wadi Muqaddam with its many of acacia trees. It is an "inhabited" desert; near the water wells we can meet small groups of Bisharin nomads who take their animals for water. These nomads live in tents formed by a frame made of branches and covered with a big length of camelhair cloth. You can tell the difference among the various sub-tribes from their tattoos and stripping of flesh on their cheeks and foreheads. Meeting these nomads is always a pleasure; they show a high sense of hospitality. We will stop at the ‘chai houses’, literally teahouses, which are a sort of very spartan motorway service area, in the desert where the local truck drivers usually stop. We reach the Nile and the small town of Merowe from where we cross the river to reach the Nubian Rest House, located at the foot of the Jebel Barkal.
Dinner and overnight at the rest house

Day 3 - Karima, Jebel Barkal and the Necropolis of El Kurru
A landmark in the Nubian Desert, Jebel Barkal (‘Jebel’ means mountain in Arabic), can be seen from dozens of kilometres whilst still in the open desert. At the foot of this wonderful, isolated red sandstone mountain, considered holy since the ancient times, there is a large temple, dedicated to the Pharaohs of the New Reign and to their patron Amon. The Amon's ancient ‘Pure Mountain’, the Olympus of the Nubians, was the religious Nubian heart for more than 1000 years. Besides the ruins of the temple there are several sculptured granite rams that supposedly formed a border along an avenue that led to a pier on the Nile.
We visit the Royal Necropolis of the ancient city of Napata, the Nubian capital (from 800 to 400 BC) before the Meroitic period. It has a large number of pyramids in three different locations: a few hundreds of metres northwards from Jebel Barkal, at El Kurru, a dozen of kilometres southwards from the mountain and at Nuri, which is located on the other bank of the Nile.
We then travel southwards to the village of El Kurru where there is one of the necropolises of the ancient capital Napata. Here we visit two tombs, which are excavated in the rock under pyramids, partially collapsed and are fully decorated with images of the Pharaoh, of the gods and with multicolour hieroglyphic inscriptions. The excursion continues with a visit an area in the desert, rich in fossil trunks. In the evening we return to Karima.
Dinner and overnight at the rest house

Day 4 - Karima - the Nubian Desert and to the 4th Cataract
After breakfast, a short visit to the market in Karima, an ideal opportunity to meet the Sudanese people. We then head north, travelling into the Nubian Desert. It is an almost sterile area, where little vegetation survives. We then reach the beautiful granite rocky formations of the 4th Cataract, with its many rapids. Among the rocks are some villages whose inhabitants cultivate small fields on the edge of the desert. The sense of hospitality of these people is very high and they often invite travellers into their houses to drink a cup of ‘chai’, usually made with spices. Return to Karima.
Dinner and overnight at the rest house

Day 5 - Karima – Meroe
Not far from the Rest House we cross the Nile by ferryboat. Waiting for the ferry and crossing the river are very interesting moments that give us an opportunity to get in touch with the local people and to experience some of their kindness and hospitality. After the river crossing we enter the Bayuda desert, an area bounded by the loop formed by the Nile between the 4th and the 6th Cataracts. It is characterised by sharp black basalt mountains, most of them volcanic and typically cone-shaped. They alternate with level pebble stretches and large valleys with dry wadis passing through areas where only a little vegetation can be seen, together with some gazelles. It is very likely we will meet an isolated camel and donkey caravan of the Bisharin nomads. They live in family groups in small huts made of intertwined branches close to the rare water wells, in areas where surviving seems almost impossible.
We reach the town of Atbara, located on the confluence between the Nile and the river Atbara, where we cross the Nile for the last time. Then we drive south on level ground where we will see many small camelthorn acacia trees groves. We reach the pyramids of the Royal Necropolis of Meroe standing on a hill, with more than 40 pyramids, some of them in perfectly preserved condition. Arrival at the Permanent Tented Camp of Meroe.
Dinner and overnight stay at the tented camp

Day 6 - Meroe
Viisit to the Necropolis and to the Royal City of Meroe.
The Royal Necropolis of Meroe is located about 3 kms from the Nile on some hills covered with yellow sand dunes. More than 40 pyramids stand out with their sharp shapes against the clear sky. Most of them are in a perfect condition. Just in front there are some small temples with walls fully decorated with bas-reliefs that depicts the King’s life and the Gods. Then we move along the Nile to visit the ruins of the Royal City.
Dinner and overnight at the tented camp

Day 7 - Meroe - the Naga and Musawwarat Temples
After breakfast at the camp, we spend the morning visiting two archaeological sites. The site of Naga is located about 30 km to the east of the Nile and it is one of the two centres that developed during the Meroitic period. In Naga, a typical Saharan environment with rocks and sand, there is the Apedemak Temple (1st century AD): a wonderful building with bas-relief decorations. There are images of the God, with the head of a lion, of the Pharaoh and of the noblemen and several ritual images of the Apedemak God. Nearby there is a small construction with arches and columns, named ‘Kiosk’, in which we can clearly see the Egyptian, Roman and the Greek styles. Not far away is another temple dedicated to Amon with many statues of rams and a beautiful temple entrance decorated with bas-reliefs. In Musawwarat, a short distance from Naga, a settlement was located in a valley crowned by hills. Today the ruins of a very large temple, which once played an important role, are visible. A large number of elephants can be seen on the walls, which indicate that this animal used to have an important role in this area. Beyond the big wadi there is another temple - recently restored by a German archaeological mission, dedicated to the Apedemak God. We have a picnic and then return towards the Nile and stop at the town of Shendi to visit the market. In the afternoon return to the camp at Meroe.
Dinner and overnight at the tented camp

Day 8 - Meroe – Omdurman – Khartoum
After breakfast we drive south and after about 50 km, we enter a desert area covered with huge round granite boulders; these are the last offshoots of the rocky formations of the 6th Cataract. A detour off the asphalt road leads us near the Nile where these formations are even more impressive. Late morning arrival to Omdurman, ancient capital of Sudan. Visit the interesting souk, where it is possible to buy some typical local handicrafts. Transfer to Khartoum hotel where day rooms are provided until departure. Lunch and dinner free.
Late evening transfer and boarding the international flight to the UK via Frankfurt or Amsterdam

Day 9 - Arrival UK




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