Tibet - Beyond the Forbidden City

Notes

Essentials

Visas
You will need to obtain a double entry Nepalese visa for this trip. Currently they can be purchased on arrival with two passport photos and US dollars ($25 for a 15 day stay, $40 for 30 days). However we recommend that you check with your nearest embassy for the most up to date details.You do not need to obtain a visa for Tibet / China in advance to join this tour, as we will arrange a group visa and permit for Tibet at the start of the tour. You will need to supply us with your full passport details, plus a clear copy of your passport and a passport size photo at the time of booking. If we do not receive these details we will be unable to arrange a permit to enter Tibet. The visa/permit fee is currently US$120 for each group member and is payable locally in US dollars cash (except for US citizens, for whom the fee is US$200 per person).

Please note that the visa which we arrange for this tour does not permit onward travel into China beyond Lhasa.

Airport Tax
There are no departure taxes when leaving Nepal by air.

Health and Immunisations
As with travel to most parts of Asia, we strongly recommend that you contact your doctor’s surgery or a specialist travel clinic for up-to-date information, advice and the necessary vaccinations. For a visit of less than one month, almost certainly you will be advised to have immunisations against the following: Diphtheria and Tetanus, Hepatitis A, Typhoid, Meningitis. The use of a DEET-containing insect repellent is highly recommended.

Insurance

• What should my travel insurance policy cover?
• medical and health cover for an injury or sudden illness abroad
• 24 hour emergency service and assistance
• personal liability cover in case you’re sued for causing injury or damaging property
• lost and stolen possessions cover
• cancellation and curtailment (cutting short your trip) cover
• Extra cover for activities that are commonly excluded from standard policies, such as certain sports

The policy should cover the whole time that you are away.

Your policy may also have:

• personal accident cover
• legal expenses cover

Common travel insurance policy exclusions
Always check the conditions and exclusions of your policy:

• most policies will not cover drink or drug-related incidents

You must take reasonable care of your possessions or your policy will not cover you.

Practical information

Local Currency
The currency is the yuan for Tibet and the Nepalese rupee for Nepal. For current exchange rates visit www.xe.com.

Where currency can be exchanged
It is easy to exchange money in Kathmandu – there are a number of banks and exchange booths in the city, and increasingly more ATM machines. In Tibet, currency can be exchanged at a number of places. The Bank of China is currently the only bank authorised to exchange foreign currency and you can only exchange money at the Lhasa branch. Some hotels can also exchange money, although they tend to offer poor rates. Your guide will be able to assist you in obtaining yuan when you cross the border from Nepal. Please note that it is only possible to convert excess yuan back into foreign currency upon production of your original exchange documents.

Credit cards and travellers cheques
Traveller’s cheques actually attract a better rate than cash in China, so you may wish to consider bringing some of these. Credit and debit cards are not however widely accepted, although useful for drawing money from ATMs.

Best time to go
The best time to visit Tibet is during the months of June to September – as Tibet is situated on a high plateau it gets extremely cold in winter and outside of the summer months some roads can be difficult to pass due to snow. Please be aware that although daytime temperatures will be pleasant during the summer, it can still get quite cold at night and you should bring a fleece or jacket to keep you warm.

Main Language
Tibet has its own language and script, distinct from other regions of China. However due to the significant influx of Han Chinese into Tibet, Mandarin is also widely spoken.

Main Religion
Tibet’s main religion is Tibetan Buddhism, a complex belief system incorporating an enormous pantheon of gods and spirits. Tibet is an intensely religious country with large numbers of monasteries, monks and nuns, as well as pilgrims making their way to and worshipping at shrines and holy sites around the country. The earlier religion of Bon, Tibet’s indigenous religion before the coming of Buddhism, still survives but has become incorporated into Buddhism.

Food and drink
The quintessential Tibetan food are momos, steamed dumplings filled with meat or vegetables. Noodles also feature heavily in Tibetan cooking, as well as soups and yak or lamb meat. Tibetan food is not as varied as either Chinese or Nepalese food, and outside of Lhasa the choices can be quite limited.

The national drink is yak butter tea – an acquired taste!If you have any special dietary requirements you must notify us at the time of booking. While we will make every effort to cater for you, we cannot guarantee that this will be possible.

Most meals on this trip are included so you don’t need to worry too much about budgeting for food. In Kathmandu there is a wide choice of places to eat and so we don’t include all meals here – a simple meal will cost from around $2-5, while something more substantial in a better restaurant from $7-10.

Transport
On this tour we use 4wd vehicles – typically Landcruisers. Please be aware that roads in Tibet are often poor and travel can take a long time. However this is generally more than compensated for by the spectacular scenery surrounding you.

We also use regional flights to travel to and from Kathmandu.

Local conditions
Travelling in the destinations that we visit requires a good deal of understanding that often standards simply won’t be as they are at home. While we aim to make your trip as comfortable as possible, please be aware that we are often visiting remote or less developed regions that may have little infrastructure. While we aim to make your trip run as smoothly as possible there may be times when we need to ask for your patience while we rectify any problems.

What to take with you

First Aid Kit
The first thing on your list should be a first aid kit. Whilst there is no undue cause for alarm, travellers are best advised to travel well-prepared: adequately immunized, with sufficient supplies of prescription drugs, along with a medical kit.

Clothing
When it comes to clothing it is usually recommended that lighter clothes are worn through the day, and warmer ones at night. A hat is also advised to be worn through the day to protect from the sun, along with at least one piece of waterproof clothing for any days that the weather may be wet or windy.

Footwear
Footwear is a main priority on this tour. Comfortable walking shoes/boots are recommended.

Luggage
Your luggage should not exceed 20kgs (44lbs). One large suitcase/rucksack, and one small hand luggage rucksack is acceptable.

Other
Suncream/sunblock is a must – please ensure you bring enough as it may not be available locally. Insect repellent, including a bite spray will also be useful to have. As our tour in Tibet involves camping, a torch (flashlight) is essential.

The altitude of Tibet can often cause headaches – we recommend that you bring some tablets to deal with this.

Fitness
This tour does not require any special degree of fitness but you will find it more enjoyable if you are reasonably fit.

Altitude sickness
The overland route between Kathmandu and Lhasa crosses some of the highest passes in the world. A severe headache is common and can be treated with aspirin or paracetamol. At lower altitudes you will feel more energetic as your body adjusts to the changed atmospheric conditions. If you have a heart condition, or high / low blood pressure it is essential that you consult your doctor on the advisability of going to Tibet. All travellers should speak to their doctors about whether they should bring any medicines with them to alleviate altitude sickness.

Cultural and environmental guidelines
You may come across beggars while on tour in Tibet. Every traveller has different perspectives on this and ultimately the choice is up to you. Many sources recommend that you watch to see if local people give, and then follow their lead with genuine beggars. We do not recommend giving money, sweets, pens etc to children as this can encourage a begging mentality and can lead to children choosing to beg rather than go to school.

Haggling is a way of life in Asia when making many purchases, especially with tourist souvenirs. Usually, but not always, the vendor will start with a price that is higher than they are prepared to accept, and the buyer is expected to haggle. There are no hard and fast rules with this – some vendors may initially quote a vastly overinflated price, others may start with a price close to the true value, while others may just present you with one price and not be prepared to discuss it. Although many tourists may feel uncomfortable with this, it’s important to remember that this is best entered into in a relaxed manner. Once you have agreed upon a price, it is extremely bad form to then not pay this. Please also bear in mind that a small amount of money to you can be a relatively large amount for the vendor, and that it is not necessarily best practice to ‘beat the vendor down’ to the lowest possible price. Remember that they also have a living to make.

Please make sure that you take any rubbish back to the hotels with you where it can be properly disposed of – this includes cigarette butts as well.

Please do not buy any products made from endangered species – this is not sustainable and hastens the species’ decline.

Photography
You should always ask permission before taking anyone's photograph and respect their decision if they say no. In more remote areas women and older people often do not want to be photographed. Some people may also ask for some money – sometimes a little, sometimes a lot - in return for a photo. Taking photos of military installations, state buildings, and airports can lead to problems with local authorities. If you are unsure about whether it is acceptable to take a photo, please ask your tour leader or guide.

Tipping
Tipping is common practise in Asia. If your local guide has been helpful then you could think about tipping. This amount can obviously be left to you. When tipping a driver, a guide or hotel staff a few dollars will always be gratefully received.

Foreign Office Advice
We constantly monitor the advice posted by the British Foreign and Commonwealth Office (FCO). In particular we will always advise clients of any travel warnings. At present there are no warnings against travel to Tibet. Please feel free to contact us should you have any specific concerns or would like to know in detail what measures are being taken to ensure visits remain trouble free and without incident.

It should be noted that this information applies to British citizens. Other nationals are asked to check the current position of their respective government.

Further Information

Public Holidays in Tebet:

1 Jan New Year’s Day
Jan/Feb Chinese New Year
8 Mar Women’s Day
1 May Labour Day
1 June Children’s Day
1 July Communist Party Day
1 Aug Army Day
1 Oct National Day

Dates are for guidance only and may vary year to year

Electrical Supply
Plug sockets come in a number of different designs – two pinned, like Europe, three pinned angled like Australia and three pronged round. We recommend that you buy a multi-adapter.

Recommended Reading

Tibet – The Bradt Guide
Michael Buckley

Running a Hotel on the Roof of the World
Alec Le Sueur

Seven Years in Tibet
Heinrich Harrer

Trespassers on the Roof of the World
Peter Hopkirk

The Dragon in the Land of Snows
Tsering Shakya

The Search for Shangri-La
Charles Allen

IMPORTANT NOTES – PLEASE READ

Please note that the information provided is correct at the time of writing but may change. It is intended as a guide only. Further information regarding vaccinations and travel health visit www.fitfortravel.scot.nhs.uk or contact your local healthcare provider.

In addition we strongly advise you to check the information and any travel advice provided by your government. For British citizens you should visit the Foreign Office website www.fco.gov.uk.

Furthermore, you should be aware that any travel warnings or advisories may affect the validity of your travel insurance. Therefore, at the time of booking your tour it is essential you check any restrictions on cover with your insurance provider.

Issue Date – 30/07/09. For possible changes to this dossier please visit www.undiscovered-destinations.com or call +44 (0)191 296 2674

Historical Background

Tibet has long held an almost unassailable place in western imagination, a near mythical land on the very top of the world, remote, other-worldly and mystical. For so long out of bounds to western travellers, Tibet’s doors are now well and truly open to intrepid souls prepared to brave sometimes rigorous travel to unlock the secrets of its people and culture. Tibet offers a world class travel experience, made all the more special by the fact that travelling here still instils one with a sense of exploration. In contrast to its giant neighbours, China and India, the country sees relatively few visitors – perhaps put off by difficult journeys or the lack of infrastructure that better known destinations enjoy. But any hardships are more than made up for with perhaps the best mountain scenery in the world, intriguing medieval monasteries and a vibrant and engaging local culture. In many parts of the country, it is as if the last few hundred years never happened, as nomadic herders roam vast expanses looking for pasture, following traditions already ancient before the western world had heard of Tibet. Tibet is changing fast and with increased immigration from China ancient customs are coming under pressure, but it is not hard to look beyond this and find a way of life and people that are timeless.

Tibet’s known history starts with the Yarlung Valley dynasty in around the 6th century. Consolidating their power and unifying local tribes, the Yarlung kings emerged onto the international stage with the reign of Songsten Gampo in the early 7th century. Under his rule, Tibetan armies expanded power and influence by launching campaigns to northern India, Nepal and China, and posed a considerable threat to other regional powers. It is during his reign that the introduction of Buddhism to Tibet is credited – in response to the power of Tibetan armies, China and Nepal both sent wives to Songsten Gampo by way of appeasement, and through them the religion was adopted by the royal court and gradually spread throughout the kingdom. Songsten Gampo is also credited with the construction of the Jokhang Temple, still functioning today and an important site of pilgrimage for Tibetans.

Following his death Tibet continued to expand, extending north into the Xinjiang region of China and central Asia, and eventually resulting in a Sino-Tibetan treaty in the 9th century to establish borders between the two states. However, the death of the king Langdharma in 842 saw Tibet descend into a maelstrom of warring factions, and Tibet’s expansionist policies and its empire came to an end, as centralised rule became non-existent in the face of local power struggles. China and other states began to retake lands once lost to them. It was around this time that Buddhism came to spread further through Tibet, with cultural interchange with India leading to the establishment of new monasteries and new schools of religious thought.

In the 13th century Tibet was threatened from the north – the Mongol armies of Genghis Khan and his successors were the most powerful military machine in the world at the time, sweeping through China, Central Asia and much of Europe and razing whole cities to the ground if they resisted. Tibet was no exception, with numerous Mongol raiding parties inflicting serious damage. The Mongol leader Godan Khan, summoned the head of the Sakya monastery to his court and requested that he formally surrender Tibet to Mongolia. This being done, the Sakya lama became the Mongol representative in Tibet in effect the proxy ruler. Today this remains one of the bases on which China claims sovereignty over Tibet, the Mongols being the Yuan dynasty that was based in China at the time.

The rule of the Sakyapa was deeply unpopular with many Tibetans. When the Mongols were ousted from China in the 14th century, the Sakya rule was also overthrown and Tibet declared its independence, returning to many of the traditions that had been lost in the century of Mongol overlordship. The following years were a period of relative stability, and saw the founding of the Gelugpa order of Buddhism by a monk named Tsongkhapa and his followers, as well as the Ganden, Tashilhunpo, Sera and Drepung monasteries. From this was born the concept of the Dalai Lama, a reincarnation of the head of the order.

The Mongols, although no longer the power they once were, continued their policy of intervention in Tibet, and through association with the Gelugpa order placed the son of the leader Altyn Khan in the position of Dalai Lama, claiming him to be a reincarnation of the third Dalai Lama. Unnerved by this, Tsang rulers and other monasteries fought against the Gelugpa, prompting military intervention from Mongolia to restore the power of the Gelugpa order and the fifth Dalai Lama. Under him, and with Mongol backing, Tibet was once again unified and peace restored. The fifth Dalai Lama is seen as a great figure in Tibetan history, overseeing the construction of many new monasteries and the Potala Palace, his residence as head of the Tibetan state. However with his death Tibet fell once more into disarray. His successor proved to be a poor choice and was unable to exert much authority, and it was at this time that the Tibet fell under Chinese control. Tibet was invaded in 1705 by a Mongolian faction keen to assert more influence over the country, and the ineffective Dalai Lama was abducted and taken to the court of the Chinese Qing dynasty, dying – or murdered – en route. A rival Mongol faction, the Dzungars, enraged that the Dalai Lama had been killed, attacked Lhasa and deposed the new Dalai Lama. Initially they arrived in support of the Gelugpa order, but soon fell into a pattern of looting. In 1720, the Chinese took advantage of this chaotic state by sending a military expedition to Lhasa, to ‘liberate’ it from the Mongols. They promptly declared Tibet to be a protectorate of China, installing a garrison and their own representatives, known as ambans. And here lies another of China’s claims to Tibet – Chinese historians see the presence of ambans as implying sovereignty, while Tibetan historians argue that they were merely ambassadors.

The Chinese were to rule Tibet for the best part of the next two centuries, sometimes having to put down rebellions and acting to prevent an invasion from Gurkha armies to the south. It was during this time that Tibet began to pursue an isolationist policy, with foreign visitors banned from the kingdom – at the time increasing numbers of Jesuit priests were beginning to make their way into the country, challenging the Buddhist order and posing a threat to the lamas, prompting a ban on foreign contact.

The 18th and 19th centuries saw a period of intense rivalry between Russia and Britain in Central Asia – Russia keen to expand the borders of its empire and Britain afraid that it would use new territories as a launching base for military expeditions into India. Fears of Russian intervention in Lhasa prompted a military expedition, led by Francis Younghusband, to march on the capital in 1903. Tibetan resistance was little match for superior British firepower and the expedition quickly reached Gyantse, waited for a delegation from the Dalai Lama which never arrived, and then marched into Lhasa. The Dalai Lama having fled, Younghusband signed an agreement with the regent allowing British trade missions to be established – a vital part of ensuring British, rather than Russian, influence - and withdrew. A few years later, Britain signed an agreement with China which recognized that Tibet was within their sphere of influence.

The collapse of the Qing dynasty in 1911 led to rebellions within Tibet, still occupied by Chinese troops, and a year later the occupying power had been ousted from the country. The 13th Dalai Lama returned from exile and declared the independence of Tibet. For the next few decades China essentially left Tibet alone, and the Dalai Lama began a process of modernizing the country, previously isolated and almost feudal in many aspects of its society. Old traditions proved hard to displace – the monasteries resisted any encroachment on their powers and conflict arose between the Dalai and Panchen Lama. But far worse was to come. In 1949, Mao Tse Tung seized power in China, defeating the nationalist government, and in 1950 sent troops to invade Tibet. Again, the poorly equipped Tibetans were unable to resist the might of the Chinese army. As the rest of the world stood back and watched, afraid of any conflict with newly Communist China, Mao’s forces quickly assumed control of the country. The presence of Chinese troops on Tibetan soil inflamed tensions and led to various uprisings around the country, many of which were covertly supported by the CIA, who trained Tibetans in the dark arts of guerrilla warfare. It was not until 1959 however that matters came to a head with the Lhasa uprising, prompted by fears that the Chinese were about to kidnap the Dalai Lama. As the Tibetan population began to arm themselves in preparation for a battle against the Chinese, the Dalai Lama fled in disguise to India. Three days of bloodshed and violence resulted in the deaths of 10-15,000 Tibetans on the streets of Lhasa.

China reacted severely to the uprising, closing off the border with India to prevent any further guerrilla attacks and rounding up anyone thought to harbour pro-guerrilla tendencies, killing them or sending them off to camps. A full scale attack was launched upon the institutions of Tibet – the nobility were made to work in menial positions, monasteries destroyed and precious religious artefacts smashed and burned. Ill thought out agricultural policies resulted in a massive famine. Mao’s Cultural Revolution saw the destruction of almost every religious monument in the country in an attempt to ‘liberate’ the Tibetans from their oppressive traditions, and the Dalai Lama was denounced as a traitor. Customs that the Tibetans had held dear for centuries were banned in nothing less than an attempt at cultural genocide, with tens of thousands in labour camps, over a million deaths, and the destruction of more than six thousands monasteries and convents.

The 1980s saw a relaxation of Chinese policy in Tibet, with certain religious freedom granted, the re-opening of monasteries and talks with the Dalai Lama. However with these came a flood of Han immigrants from China, officially encouraged and incentivised by the government and to have drastic effects on Tibetan society in the sinification of many of Tibet’s towns and cities. Today Tibet is a much changed place from fifty years ago. Independence protests still occur with relative frequency, dealt with harshly by Chinese troops and a government still insistent that Tibet remains part of China. The Dalai Lama remains in exile, in the north Indian town of Dharamsala, unable to return to his homeland.

Tibet has been through some gut wrenching changes within the last few decades, and as with much of the world is becoming more ‘modern’ by the day. But alongside the Chinese businesses setting up in Lhasa, you will still find pilgrims completing circuits of the Barkhor, making arcane offerings to their gods. You will still see worshippers spinning prayer wheels, muttering incantations and lighting candles. And in the monasteries you will see young monks following traditions that have survived, against all odds, for centuries. Tibet’s inhabitants are its biggest drawcard, an intensely religious people who draw strength from their faith to eke out an existence often in the harshest of conditions. Travel through this marvellous country, on roads that seem to stretch out past the horizon, dwarfed by the snowcapped peaks of the Himalaya. Stop at roadside shrines festooned with prayer flags, and stare in wonder at ancient buildings or scenery that will make your jaw drop. Tibet invites exploration, and rewards handsomely those who make the effort to visit – it should be in every traveller’s wish list.