Tibet - Beyond the Forbidden City

Dossier

Tibet is an almost mythical land, a land steeped in religious tradition and long inaccessible to travellers, with the fabled city of Lhasa being one of the most remote capital cities anywhere. Nestled among the world’s highest peaks, Tibet has developed a vibrant culture and traditions which are manifested in its many monasteries and the religious devotion of its inhabitants. A wild and untamed place, the Tibetan plateau is inhabited by isolated communities and groups of nomads, many following ways of life that have long since disappeared elsewhere. On this trip we not only explore some of Tibet’s ‘better known’ sites such as Lhasa and the splendid monasteries of Shigatse and Gyantse, but we also venture out to the far west – a place which makes the rest of Tibet seem positively cosmopolitan. We visit the holy sites of Mt Kailash and Lake Manasarovar, immensely important for Tibetan pilgrims, and join them in a trek around the holy mountain, said to cleanse the sins of a lifetime. Our trip to western Tibet takes us through places where there is very little infrastructure, and we camp along the way where necessary – surely the best way of experiencing this fantastic wilderness. Ever present are fantastic views of the world’s greatest mountain range, and we gain a real insight into how Tibetan people live away from the cities. This tour offers a comprehensive insight into one of the least known regions of the world, going well off the tourist trail to show you a side of Tibet that most travellers never get to see.

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Day 1 – Kathmandu
Arrive in Kathmandu and transfer to the hotel. Depending on your time of arrival, you may have time to explore the city. Overnight Shanker Hotel or similar.

Kathmandu
Kathmandu is a fascinating, almost medieval city full of extraordinary temples, monuments, and colourful street life. There are endless small streets jam packed with stalls selling cloth, pots and pans, spices, souvenirs, saris and a myriad of other merchandise. The best way to explore Kathmandu is to spend a few hours wandering through the maze of narrow lanes in the old part of town which are crowded with colourful little shops. Most roads lead eventually to the Durbar Square. Here you find the old Royal Palace, many temples, and you may even catch sight of the Living Goddess, known as the Kumari, as she appears at window of the Kasthamandap, or House of Woods, which gives Kathmandu its name. If you want to look for souvenirs, you can simply stroll through the maze of narrow lanes of the old city where you'll find shops selling Thangkas (traditional paintings of religious and ceremonial paintings), block prints of Nepalese, Tibetan and Chinese deities, Tibetan carpets, Tibetan and Nepalese clothes, Nepalese caps (or topi), terracotta pottery, jewellery, masks and puppets, bronzes, khukris (the traditional knife of the Gurkhas) and many other arts and crafts.

Day 2 – Kathmandu
A day to explore Kathmandu. We visit the three cities of Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur, with their exquisite temples and well preserved Durbar Squares, packed full of fascinating architecture and providing a very tangible link with Nepal’s past. Overnight Shanker Hotel or similar. (B)

Day 3 – Zhangmu
We leave Nepal behind and start our journey into Tibet, crossing the border to the frontier town of Zhangmu, a surprisingly lush and green town set amidst beautiful scenery of that marks our first introduction to the region we will spend the next few week discovering. Overnight Caiyuan Hotel or similar. (BLD)

Zhangmu
We drive from Kathmandu to Kodari on the Nepal/Tibetan border. Our road wends its way through typical Nepali countryside of terraced fields and small villages – something that will contrast dramatically with the stark, bare plains of Tibet. After crossing the Chinese-built Friendship Bridge over the Bhote Kosi river, we continue to the border town of Zhangmu. Zhangmu snakes up a steep mountainside on both sides of the road and is an active trading centre for Chinese, Tibetan and Nepalese goods.

Days 4-5 – Western Tibet Exploration
We head west across rough roads and through isolated settlements on our journey to Lake Manasarovar. These are long days in the vehicle but the breathtaking scenery, the opportunity to meet local people along the way, and the feeling that you are entering a region that few travellers ever visit, makes it all the more worthwhile. We spend one night near the lake of Paiko Tso, and then pass through Zhongba and Nyogze, camping or staying local guesthouses. (BLD)

Day 6 – Lake Manasarovar
We drive to Lake Manasarovar, one of the highest freshwater lakes in the world and an important place for Hindu, Buddhist, Jain and Bon pilgrims. We should be able to see many pilgrims who have come to bathe and perform religious ceremonies. We camp tonight near the shores of the lake. (BLD)

Lake Manasarovar
Manasarovar is relatively round in shape and covers around 120 sq. miles in area, freezing each winter and melting each spring. Its significance for Hindus arises from the belief that anyone who drinks from its waters will be cleansed of their sins, and accordingly many pilgrims make the long journey from India to be here. It is also believed that it is the summer home of swans – a holy bird in Hindu mythology. Buddhists believe that this is where the Buddha was conceived and so the lake is equally important, with many Buddhist monasteries having been built along its shores over the years. Lake Manasarovar is famed for its beauty, with its colour changing from a clear blue around the shores to an emerald green in the centre.

Day 7 – Lake Manasarovar – Mt Kailash
We spend today exploring the lake and it surroundings, including Chiu monastery, situated on a hill with stunning views of the lake itself. We then head to the small village of Darchen, the starting point for our trek around Mt Kailash. (BLD)

Days 8-10 – Mt Kailash Trek
A circuit, or kora, of Mt Kailash is the holiest of all Tibet’s pilgrimages. We spend three days walking around this sacred mountain, stopping at places of religious significance en route and crossing the 5630m Drolma La pass en route. Our journey is made all the more exciting by the fact that we will be accompanied by numerous pilgrims, some of whom will make many circuits of the mountain in a bid to attain nirvana. Overnight camping or local guesthouse. (BLD)

Mount Kailash
Mount Kailash is the holiest mountain in the Himalayas, revered by Hindus and Buddhists alike. For Hindus it is considered to be the abode of Lord Shiva, and such is its significance that it has never been climbed. It is said that Milarepa, champion of Tantric Buddhism, arrived in Tibet to challenge Naro Bön-chung, champion of the Bön religion of Tibet. The two magicians engaged in a terrifying sorcerers' battle, but neither was able to gain a decisive advantage. Finally, it was agreed that whoever could reach the summit of Kailash most rapidly would be the victor. While Naro Bön-chung sat on a magic drum and soared up the slope, Milarepa's followers were dumbfounded to see him sitting still and meditating. Yet when Naro Bön-chung was nearly at the top, Milarepa suddenly moved into action and overtook him by riding on the rays of the sun, thus winning the contest.

Today Mt Kailash attracts thousands of pilgrims, many from lands far away, who trek around the mountain in an effort to wash away the sins of a lifetime. Most will attempt to complete three circuits, with thirteen being a particularly auspicious number. Walking the circuit with hundreds of keen pilgrims offers an excellent opportunity to gain insights into the religious devotion of ordinary Tibetans, and gives us the chance for precious moments of cultural interaction with these friendly people.

Our trek around Mt Kailash will take three days, and we will camp each night near monasteries with other pilgrims. You should expect to walk around 6-7 hours for the first two days, and 2-3 on the final day. Tents and equipment will be carried by porters but you will need to carry a small daypack with your day to day items in it. The trek is 53km in length and reaches a maximum altitude of 5630m, with nights being spent at just under 5000m.

Should you not wish to take part in the trek, it is possible to remain in Darchen and immerse yourself in the lively pilgrim atmosphere, or take walks in the surrounding area – there are a number of interesting monasteries to explore.

Days 11-13 – Drive to Shigatse
We spend our days driving east, surrounded by magnificent peaks, hauntingly beautiful landscapes and with the opportunities to meet local nomads and pilgrims en route. Our goal is the town of Shigatse, steeped in history and the traditional seat of the Panchen Lama. Typically we drive between five and eight hours each day, camping overnight and allowing time to explore the surrounding area. On Day 19 we reach Shigatse, and can reflect on our incredible journey through Tibet’s ‘wild west’. Two nights camping, overnight in Shigatse at Manasarovar Hotel or similar. (BLD)

Day 14 – Shigatse - Gyantse
We visit Tashilhunpo Monastery, very well preserved and one of the few in Tibet that was not significantly damaged during the Cultural Revolution. Afterwards we leave Shigatse and drive to Gyantse, a small agricultural town where we visit the Kumbum stupa and the Phalkor Monastery, with its 100,000 image pagoda. Overnight Gyantse Hotel or similar. (BLD)

Shigatse
Shigatse is the second largest town in Tibet, and home to the fantastic Tashilhunpo monastery. With its traditional Tibetan architecture, striking golden roof and 26m high Buddha, this is the largest monastery of the gelugpa order in Tibet and certainly one of the most impressive. The monastery was founded in 1447 by Genden Drup, the first Dalai Lama, and later became the seat of the Panchen Lama. The Panchen Lama was considered to be the second highest authority in Tibet after the Dalai Lama himself, and naturally rivalries emerged over the years, often fuelled by Chinese governments wishing to weaken the power of the Dalai Lama.

Day 15 - Lhasa
Drive east to the capital Lhasa, crossing the Karo La pass at 5010m and passing the lake of Yamdrok Tso. Our arrival in Lhasa comes as quite a shock after our time spent in the remote western region, but this is the cultural and spiritual heart of Tibet and home to some of its greatest treasures. It is impossible to understand Tibet without visiting Lhasa, and the city is one of the most intriguing in all of Asia, once a forbidden city which few foreign travellers had ever seen. Overnight Thangka Hotel or similar. (BLD)

Days 16-17 - Lhasa
We spend two days exploring this remarkable city, visiting its key sites such as the Jokhang Temple, the Potala Palace and the important monasteries of Sera and Drepung. We also visit the Barkhor, an area of streets surrounding the Jokhang Temple and an important pilgrimage circuit for Tibetans. Overnight Thangka Hotel or similar. (BLD)

Lhasa
Lhasa is probably the most spiritual capital city on earth and remains a mystery to most of us in the West. At its heart lies the spiritual centre of Tibet - the Jokhang Temple. It is so important to Buddhists that over the centuries they have travelled in their millions through some of the most extreme, inhospitable and beautiful landscapes on the planet to pay homage. Inside we join the pilgrims as they visit temple after temple, the dark rooms and corridors lit by butter lamps and the atmosphere enhanced by the low chanting of the monks.

Surrounding the Jokhang Temple is the Barkhor, the street which becomes the last part of the arduous journey for the pilgrims before they enter the Temple. You will see the pilgrims as they perform a ritual circuit of the monastery, prostrating at every step. The Barkhor is also a vibrant and exciting market selling everything the weary pilgrim or inspired traveller could need.

The crown of Lhasa, looking down over the devoted pilgrims, is the fabled Potala Palace. High on a rocky promontory this magnificent building hides a labyrinth of rooms and dedicated temples and it was here that the Dalai Lamas lived, worshipped and died. Please note that the Chinese authorities restrict visits to the Potala Palace to a duration of only one hour.

Chaotic, mysterious and spiritual, Lhasa will never disappoint, and is full of surprises such as the Islamic area with its mosque, the street pool tables and the young monks playing football.

Sera
Sera Thekchenling Monastery is located in north-eastern Lhasa. It was founded in 1419 as a teaching monastery and had up to 10,000 monks studying there at one time. The interior of the Sera Monastery is as ornate as most others in Tibet and although damaged during the Chinese Cultural Revolution when Mao's Red Guards went on the rampage, a massive restoration effort has been underway in recent years. After the Tibetan diaspora of 1959, refugee monks re-established Sera in the Indian settlement of Bylakuppe. Today, the refugee monastery of Sera-India has a monastic population of approximately 4000 monks, and Sera-Tibet houses about 500 monks.

One of the most interesting features of Sera is the opportunity to see the monks debating. Every day the monks retire to an outside courtyard to debate points of theology with the newer monks being questioned by older, more experienced ones. If the new monk gets the answer wrong the teacher slaps his hands together to correct him, hitting their fist into their palm to emphasise the point.

Drepung
Drepung Monastery is the largest and richest monastery ever built in Tibet and it is an extraordinarily impressive place to explore. Founded in 1416 by a disciple of Tsong Khapa it lies 8km west of Lhasa under Mt Gambo Utse. Its name means Rice Heap in Tibetan and the monastery covers a floor space of more than 200,000m² – at its peak, it had a registration of more than 10,000 monks. Many high and learned lamas also studied here. Closed in the aftermath of the Cultural Revolution, the monastery was reopened in 1980 with only 500 monks, most of them young novices.

Day 18 – Kathmandu
Fly back to Kathmandu where the tour ends on arrival. (B)

Tour style: Pioneer

Inclusions:

Arrival transfers
Flights to and from Lhasa
All accommodation on twin share basis
Services of English speaking guide / tour leader
Meals as listed (B – Breakfast, L – Lunch, D – Dinner)
Entrance fees for sites listed as part of the itinerary

Excluded:

International flights
Any airport taxes
Travel Insurance
Visas (including Tibet permit)
Drinks

Please note that you should also read the Country Notes in association with this itinerary for practical information about your trip and the destination you will be visiting.

The itinerary and supplementary information has been compiled with care and provided in good faith. However it may be subject to change, and does not form part of a contract between the client and Undiscovered Destinations.