Sudan - Kingdom of the Black Pharaohs

Notes

Essentials

Visas
Everyone except Egyptians requires a visa for entry to Sudan. At the time of writing British and most other European nationals no longer require an authority from the Sudanese Ministry of Foreign Affairs before the visa can be issued, which was previously the case. A simple Letter of Invitation to support your application is now sufficient. For American, Australian and certain other nationals the authorisation from the Ministry is still required before the nominated Sudanese embassy can issue the the visa. Upon receipt of a copy of your passport (a scanned copy is preferred) we will forward this to our colleagues in Khartoum, in order that they can start the authorisation process. It is likely to take at least one month before the authority is granted and you can then apply for yoru visa from the Sudanese embassy in your home country. In certain cases the visa can also be issued on arrival, particularly if there is no Sudanese diplomatic representation in your home country. As prices vary please check with the embassy or our office about the cost of the visa. In addition, on arrival in Khartoum you will be asked to pay USD 125 cash or the equivalent in Euros cash to our local representative, which covers their costs for obtaining the authority from the Ministry.

All travellers will also need to take two passport sized photographs to Sudan.

It is essential that your passport does not contain any Israeli stamps or other evidence of travel to Israel; otherwise your application will be rejected.

Health and Immunisations
As with travel to most parts of Africa, we strongly recommend that you contact your doctor’s surgery or a specialist travel clinic for up-to-date information, advice and the necessary vaccinations. For a visit of less than one month, almost certainly you will be advised to have immunisations against the following: Diphtheria and Tetanus, Hepatitis A, Typhoid, Meningitis. Anti-malaria medication will also be required and the use of a DEET-containing insect repellent is highly recommended.

In addition if you are arriving from another African country you may also require a yellow fever certificate.

Local Currency
The currency is the Sudanese Dinar (SD). For current exchange rates visit www.xe.com.

Where currency can be exchanged
The only certain opportunity to change money will be in Khartoum, either at the airport, or possibly at your hotel. It is unlikely exchange facilities will be available elsewhere on this tour. However, as most of the services and meals are included, you will have little need for local currency. Further information will be given by your local guide.

Credit cards and travellers cheques
Travellers’ cheques are difficult to exchange in Sudan and many places charge astronomically high commissions for doing so. Credit cards cannot generally be used in Sudan.

Best time to go
Sudan is a seasonal destination. The north and area of most interest for travellers, is hot and dry throughout the year, but between April and October temperatures are ferociously hot, typically reaching over 40 ºC. Sandstorms are also common during this time. Khartoum is a little cooler but more humid, receiving rain in July and August. From November to March are the best months to travel, although northern winter nights can be cold.

Main Language
Sudan’s official language is Arabic. English is the common language of South Sudan and the language of education. You can often find someone who speaks at least a few words of English, however broken, although it is worth trying to pick up whatever Arabic you can.

Main Religion
About 70% of the population is Muslim, although the south is dominated by traditional animists (25%) and Christians (around 5%). Despite their differences, hospitality is a key concept for all Sudanese.

Food and drink
While on tour with us in Sudan you will be accompanied by a cook, who will prepare meals for you while camping. Food is usually European style. Traditional Sudanese food is fairly simple. A favourite dish is fuul, which consists of mashed beans and tastes much better than it looks. Kebabs are also popular, as is that Middle East staple falafel.

If you have any special dietary requirements you must notify us at the time of booking. While we will make every effort to cater for you, we cannot guarantee that this will be possible.

As meals and some drinks are included in the price of your tour, you will probably spend little once in Sudan. As a guide a small coffee or soft drink will cost from $1. A simple lunch or dinner will cost upwards from just a few dollars.

Transport
Our tours in Sudan use 4wd vehicles – typically Landcruisers.

Local conditions
Travelling in the destinations that we visit requires a good deal of understanding that often standards simply won’t be as they are at home. While we aim to make your trip as comfortable as possible, please be aware that we are often visiting remote or less developed regions that may have little infrastructure. While we aim to make your trip run as smoothly as possible there may be times when we need to ask for your patience while we rectify any problems.

What to take with you

First Aid Kit
The first thing on your list should be a first aid kit. Whilst there is no undue cause for alarm, travellers are best advised to travel well-prepared: adequately immunized, with sufficient supplies of prescription drugs, along with a medical kit.

Clothing
When it comes to clothing it is usually recommended that lighter clothes are worn through the day, and warmer ones at night. A hat is also advised to be worn through the day to protect from the sun, along with at least one piece of waterproof clothing for any days that the weather may be wet or windy.

However, both male and female clients should dress with respect. Knee length shorts are acceptable for men, but not for women. We also recommend that women keep their arms covered. Our advice is to dress sensitively in accordance with Muslim traditions, and avoid wearing revealing clothing, particularly in rural areas. Also women should wear a head scarf when entering mosques. In summary, unless advised by your local guide, you should follow the above advice. If it is appropriate to dress in a slightly more revealing manner, then your guide will advise you accordingly.

Sleeping bag
You will need to bring a sleeping bag on all of our Sudan trips except for the Kingdom of the Black Pharaohs tour.

Footwear
Footwear is a main priority on this tour. Comfortable walking shoes/boots are recommended.

Luggage
Your luggage should not exceed 20kgs (44lbs). One large suitcase/rucksack, and one small hand luggage rucksack is acceptable.

Other
Suncream/sunblock is a must. Insect repellent, including a bite spray will also be useful to have. For those tours involving camping, a torch (flashlight) is essential.

If you will be using a camera which needs film, it is recommended that a supply is taken with you, as it is not always available in Sudan. For those with digital cameras, we would advise you to take a spare battery

Fitness
This tour does not require any special degree of fitness but you will find it more enjoyable if you are reasonably fit.

Cultural and environmental guidelines
In many parts of Sudan water is in extremely short supply. Please bear this in mind when washing and showering and try to limit your water usage as much as possible.

Women should not enter mosques unless specifically told they can do so and you should always refer to your guide regarding dress code and behaviour in and near religious sites.

You may come across beggars while on tour in Sudan. Every traveller has different perspectives on this and ultimately the choice is up to you. Many sources recommend that you watch to see if local people give, and then follow their lead with genuine beggars. We do not recommend giving money, sweets, pens etc to children as this can encourage a begging mentality and can lead to children choosing to beg rather than go to school.

Haggling is a way of life in Africa when making many purchases, especially with tourist souvenirs. Usually, but not always, the vendor will start with a price that is higher than they are prepared to accept, and the buyer is expected to haggle. There are no hard and fast rules with this – some vendors may initially quote a vastly overinflated price, others may start with a price close to the true value, while others may just present you with one price and not be prepared to discuss it. Although many tourists may feel uncomfortable with this, it’s important to remember that this is best entered into in a relaxed manner. Once you have agreed upon a price, it is extremely bad form to then not pay this. Please also bear in mind that a small amount of money to you can be a relatively large amount for the vendor, and that it is not necessarily best practice to ‘beat the vendor down’ to the lowest possible price. Remember that they also have a living to make.

Please make sure that you take any rubbish back to the hotels and camps with you where it can be properly disposed of – this includes cigarette butts as well.

Please do not buy any products made from endangered species – this is not sustainable and hastens the species’ decline

Photography
You should always ask permission before taking anyone's photograph and respect their decision if they say no. In more remote areas women and older people often do not want to be photographed. Some people may also ask for some money – sometimes a little, sometimes a lot - in return for a photo. Taking photos of military installations, state buildings, and airports can lead to problems with local authorities. If you are unsure about whether it is acceptable to take a photo, please ask your tour leader or guide.

Tipping
Tipping is common practise in Africa. If your local guide has been helpful then you could think about tipping. This amount can obviously be left to you. When tipping a driver, a guide or hotel staff a few dollars will always be gratefully received.

Foreign Office Advice
We constantly monitor the advice posted by the British Foreign and Commonwealth Office (FCO). In particular we will always advise clients of any travel warnings. At the time of writing a number of travel warnings do apply to Sudan, in particular against travel to Darfur, much of the south and some border areas. However, Undiscovered Destinations does not operate any tours in these areas. Please feel free to contact us should you have any specific concerns or if would like to know in detail what measures are being taken to ensure visits remain trouble free and without incident.

It should be noted that this information applies to British citizens. Other nationals are asked to check the current position of their respective government.

Further Information

Public Holidays in Sudan:

1 Jan Independence Day.
7 Jan Coptic Christmas.
10 Jan Islamic New Year.  
9 Mar Al-Mowlid Al Nabawi (Birth of the Prophet).
27 Apr Coptic Easter.
30 Jun Revolution Day. 
25 Dec Christmas Day.

In addition to these are the holidays associated with Ramadan, which follow a lunar calendar and vary annually.

Dates are for guidance only and may vary year to year

Electrical Supply
Electrical supply is 230V/50 Hz and plugs usually have two round pins.

Recommended Reading

Sudan – The Bradt Guide
Paul Clammer

Emma’s War
Deborah Scroggins

Sword of the Prophet
Fergus Nicoll

IMPORTANT NOTES – PLEASE READ

Please note that the information provided is correct at the time of writing but may change. It is intended as a guide only. Further information regarding vaccinations and travel health visit www.fitfortravel.scot.nhs.uk or contact your local healthcare provider.

In addition we strongly advise you to check the information and any travel advice provided by your government. For British citizens you should visit the Foreign Office website www.fco.gov.uk.

Furthermore, you should be aware that any travel warnings or advisories may affect the validity of your travel insurance. Therefore, at the time of booking your tour it is essential you check any restrictions on cover with your insurance provider.

Issue Date – 17/08/09

For possible changes to this dossier please visit www.undiscovered-destinations.com or call +44 (0)191 296 2674

Historical Background

Africa’s largest country is all too often ignored when planning a trip to the continent. Plagued by an image problem and by headlines of Darfur, most people pass it over in favour of better known neighbours such as Egypt or Ethiopia. But Sudan is a vast country, with much to offer outside of its isolated trouble spots, with a heritage as rich as any nation on earth and a friendly welcoming people who are keen to see visitors exploring their lands. Few people realise the depth of Sudan’s history, its ancient pyramids long overlooked as people seek out the more accessible monuments of Giza. For sure, some of Sudan’s sites can be hard to get to, but if you take the trouble you are rewarded, more likely than not, with having world class attractions all to yourself – a rare occurrence in this day and age and something very special indeed. Explore monuments dating back thousands of years, to a time when Europe languished in pre-history, and let Sudan reveal its enchanting secrets. Its scenery is equally spectacular, vast deserts, sunburnt mountains and of course the mighty Nile, lifeblood of the Nation, and travelling through redefines what adventure travel is all about. You do not follow a well beaten track in Sudan, but tread a careful and delicate trail so far open to just a few curious souls. Sudan is an unbeatable destination, the kind of place that people fall in love with – go there and you will be seduced.

Sudan’s history starts way back in the mists of time, when it was known as the land of Kush to the ancient Egyptians, who raided it for gold and slaves. In contrast to today, it was seen as a land of riches, and the Egyptians mined for its stone and built forts along the course of the Nile. Influence over Kush grew and waned with the political power of Egypt at the time, but the two lands maintained close links throughout, trading grain, ivory and minerals. When Egyptian influence declined in the third millennium BC, the city state of Kerma became a powerful and rich regional force and when Egypt fell to the Hyksos, extended its power to encompass southern Egypt. This was not to last however. When the Hyksos were finally vanquished from Egypt around the 15th century BC, the pharaohs of Egypt’s New Kingdom turned their attentions southwards and led military campaigns to conquer the land of Kush. Placing it firmly under Egyptian control, Egypt established a presence as far south as the Fourth Cataract of the Nile but claimed sovereignty over lands further south and demanded tribute from local chiefs. Consolidating their power, they built a number of temples which remain today and set about making Kush fully part of Egypt. Egyptian was made the official language, and many people worshipped Egyptian gods, with temples built in the capital at Napata. Egyptian rule lasted until around the 11th century BC, when it became to weak to administer Kush.

Little is then known until the 8th century BC, when Kush emerged as a powerful kingdom ruled by expansionist monarchs who gradually extended their influence into what had been Egyptian territory. Viewing themselves as the true keepers of Egyptian culture and tradition, they extended their borders into Egypt, pushing up against Libya and Palestine but were pushed back by another force, the Assyrians. The rulers of Kush contented themselves with conquering new dominions to the south and east instead.

Around the 3rd to 5th century BC, an Egyptian invasion forced the rulers of Kush to move south to Meroe, seen as a more secure location. Kush began to become more isolated from Egypt as its northern neighbour came to be ruled by successive waves of invaders – Persians, Greeks and Romans. The kingdom became wealthy through agriculture, far more easily facilitated in the better lands surrounding Meroe, and built a number of temples throughout its land. Relations with the north were generally peaceful and based around trade, although during a brief interlude the Roman rulers of Egypt unsuccessfully invaded, only to be pushed back and be forced to seek peace. Around the 3rd century AD though, Kush fell into decline. Although definitive answers to this are not forthcoming, it seems a number of factors contributed to its downfall – rivalry with the powerful state of Axum to the south, the decline in trade with the weakened Romans to the north, raids by nomadic desert tribes and the arrival of Christian missionaries undermining traditional belief systems.

Kush developed into three separate kingdoms – Nobatia, Makuria and Alwa, each Christian states. The development of Christianity allowed ties with the Mediterranean to grow once more, and Nubia, as the lands were collectively known, became a highly sophisticated society with churches built and through monks and priests, literacy spread throughout the land. This also led to it becoming wealthy and militarily powerful.

The 7th century saw the spread of Island throughout the region. Arab armies swept into Egypt and quickly conquered it, then headed south and attempted to do the same to Nubia. However here they met with fiercer resistance – they were unable to dominate Nubia as they did Egypt and were forced to sign a peace treaty. Relations eventually normalised but the adoption of Islam by Egypt meant that Nubia was now cut off from the rest of the Christian world. As a result of this, Christianity began to decline. Islam made gradual inroads into the region, through trade and in the 13th century a series of invasions by Egypt’s Mamluk rulers, and by the 14th century most of Nubia had converted, willingly or otherwise.

By the 15th and 16th centuries new powers began to emerge – the Funj, thought to be a semi-nomadic tribe originating from the border near Ethiopia, pushed back the Arab rulers of Nubia and formed the kingdom of Sennar, quickly converting to Islam. Meanwhile to the west the Sultanate of Darfur was established, and Shilluk and Dinka tribes were becoming a threat in the south. Sudan was a mass of competing interests rife with tensions.

The 19th century saw the French invade and then quickly be expelled from Egypt, the power vacuum filled by Mohammed Ali, placed on the throne by the Ottoman Empire. Ali proved to be an able leader with big ideas – in 1821 he sent a force south to expel Egypt’s previous rulers, the Mamluks, from their refuge in Sudan, and to conquer. Ottoman forces swept through the region, bringing all tribes and kingdoms in the region under his control, and Sudan became a province of Egypt. Its main role was a source of slaves, which were gathered rapaciously from the country. The opening up of the river route through the swamps of the Sudd to the south brought more and more tribes back to the slave markets of Sudan. Sudan became nothing more than a giant larder for the needs of Egypt – its resources were expropriated in enormous quantities. Egypt at this time claimed sovereignty over all of Sudan, but was unable to control its southern reaches effectively, instead administering them by means of punitive raids.

Under the rule of Khedive Ismail, concerted attempts were made to formally extend rule in the south and to modernise the administration of Sudan. Ismail enlisted the help of Europeans to establish a base in the province of Equatoria, including the big game hunter and explorer Samuel Baker, and General Gordon, later to become governor of the whole country on Cairo’s behalf. Egypt however was becoming more and more indebted to European powers, especially Britain to whom it eventually had to sell its shareholding in the Suez Canal. Unable to withstand the greed of Europe, it became a British protectorate, and so Sudan became part of the rapidly expanding British Empire in 1878.

A movement was growing in Sudan, fuelled by hatred of foreign rule, that threatened the colonial occupation. Gathering itself around a man known as the Mahdi, it was bent on overthrowing foreign rule and establishing a religious state. Many gathered around this message, and by the mid 1880s the movement was posing a serious threat to the British administration, with various towns falling to the Mahdists until only Khartoum and the Red Sea port of Suakin were left.

Gordon, at Khartoum, was isolated. The British government knew this but dithered in sending reinforcements, wasting precious time which Gordon did not have. In 1885 Mahdist forces took Khartoum and beheaded Gordon, causing an outrage in London and turning Gordon into a national hero who was abandoned by his government. The Mahdi died soon afterwards, but under his successor the capital was moved from Khartoum to Omdurman and moves were made to expand into Ethiopia. Meanwhile, the difficult to reach province of Equatoria still held on, ruled by a curious German going by the name of Emin Pasha. He was eventually ‘rescued’ by HM Stanley on an expedition sponsored by King Leopold of Belgium, who was keen to add the region to his Congo Free State. Pasha however was in no mood to be rescued, having successfully stayed there for some time, and on his forced removal to Bagamoyo on the coast promptly joined the Germans based there and promised to reclaim it for them.

In the dying years of the century Britain sent General Kitchener to retake Sudan – better equipped than Gordon had been he stormed down the Nile and recaptured Khartoum, smashing the remnants of the Mahdist army.

These were the frantic years of the Scramble for Africa, when European powers were busy snatching whatever lands they could get their hands on, and the south of Sudan, an area where central rule had always been weak and boundaries ill defined, was eyed jealously by other powers. Two years earlier a French expedition had been sent to claim it for themselves – after a long journey through the jungles of the Congo they established themselves at a small and insignificant place called Fashoda, raising the French flag. Sudan and its southern reaches were critical to Britain – Sudan was seen as the backdoor to Egypt, and he who controlled Egypt controlled the Suez Canal, with all the ramifications that it held for Britain’s greatest colony, India. Kitchener’s force steamed down to Fashoda, found the French there, and promptly claimed the area for Britain. Both forces referred the matter back to their respective governments in Europe. After much deliberation, the French backed down – knowing that Britain was very serious about claiming this piece of Africa and that in the event of a war they would be outgunned by its superior navy. Sudan in its entirety was British, although Mahdist revolts continued for some years.

Under colonial rule, the development of Sudan proceeded unevenly, and while much investment was made in the north, almost no effort was put into the south, creating the foundations for the divisions within the country that remain today. Calls for independence grew until in 1956 Sudan was granted its freedom, in a move that infuriated Egypt which still considered it part of its territory. Always an incongruous mixture of a country, Sudan was essentially divided into two parts – the north, Arab and Moslem and the south, with its own tribal groupings. Initially the British had thought to keep these separate when independence finally came, but at the last moment backed down.

With the government in Khartoum pushing a policy of ‘Sudanisation’ – making Arabic the official language, and tacitly giving priority to the north of the country, it was a matter of time before southern groups began to show their discontent, angry at what was seen as the oppression of their culture and rights. Security in the south began to decline with the formation of several armed groups, and quite quickly this became a full blown civil war, with southerners fighting the government forces and often each other when they disagreed over their aims. Sudan’s civil war has become Africa’s longest running conflict and up until very recently has made much of the south a no-go area for visitors. Splits in the Sudanese People’s Liberation Movement led to bitter infighting between different factions with various warlords vying for control. In 2002 peace talks began however, which ushered in a new period of relative calm for the fragile south.

Sudan is in the news today for all the wrong reasons, and there is no doubt that the vicious conflict in Darfur is one of the world’s great humanitarian disasters. Few people realise however that there is far more to Sudan than war – it is an enormous country with vast areas where peace has reigned for decades, where the people are welcoming, and the sights rival anything to be found in better known countries. When you travel through Sudan, you feel as if you are discovering a land that no foreigner knows, as you camp near deserted monuments or are treated with friendly curiosity by villagers. Sudan is one of the least touristed nations on earth – bafflingly so – and a place where one can regain that sense of wonder that accompanied our first tentative steps abroad. Don’t ignore Sudan – it is a giant of a nation with a heritage that will leave your senses reeling.