Romania - The Land that Time Forgot

Dossier

Romania is one of the most exciting parts of Europe, tucked away in a remote corner where few visit and fewer still have much knowledge of. Blessed with large swathes of virtually untouched countryside, much of Romania follows a way of life that has been extinguished elsewhere in Europe, and the centuries old folklore and traditions still thrive in its picturesque villages. Our tour goes right to the heart of this captivating country – rather than simply skim over its highlights we take you not only to important cultural gems such as the medieval towns of Sighisoara and Sibiu in Transylvania, but spend time getting to grips with life in the villages, often staying in rural communities as guests of local families, where local culture is at its strongest. We explore the spectacular Carpathian Mountains, home to bears and wolves, and devote to the Danube Delta the time that it truly deserves, staying at an isolated settlement deep within its backwaters. Taking in the gorgeous painted monasteries of Bucovina and the enigmatic wooden churches of Maramures, this trip encompasses the very best that Romania has to offer. But Romania cannot simply be experienced by ticking off its sites – it is the genuine cultural encounters that we have with local people that make this tour so very special, and will leave you with enduring memories of this truly enchanting country.

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Day 1 - Bucharest

Arrive in Bucharest. Depending on arrival, you may have a chance to explore the city. Overnight Hotel Capitol or similar.

Bucharest
Bucharest all too often has a bad reputation, perceived by many to be little more than a grey and soulless city, full of gloomy Soviet architecture. To dismiss Bucharest like this is to do it a grave injustice and ignores its lively cultural life which led to it once being nicknamed the ‘Paris of the East’. Of course it does have its fair share of concrete block style buildings, many of which sprung up during Ceausescu’s regime but it also contains a marvellous collection of ancient churches, neoclassical and Art Nouveau buildings, parks and lively markets as well as some excellent museums. Bucharest’s historic quarter is perhaps its highlight, founded as a citadel by Vlad (the Impaler) Tepes and with 16th century churches and narrow streets reminiscent of times gone by. In direct contract to this is Ceausescu’s ‘civic centre’ with its wide boulevards and imposing Palace of Parliament. Bucharest dates back to the 15th century when it was a summer residence for the princely court, and during its time has been sacked by the Ottomans, invaded by Russians, Austrians and Germans and suffered a number of earthquakes. Recovering now from the rule of Ceausescu, Bucharest is starting to quietly assert itself as one of the major cultural capitals of eastern Europe.

Day 2 - Brasov
Travel along the Prahova Valley to Brasov, with its incredibly picturesque Baroque old quarter. We explore the town before heading to Bran for the evening, where we spend the night in a local guesthouse. (BD)

Brasov
Also known as Kronstadt due to the presence of German colonists as early as the 12th century, Brasov is still a mix of minorities, like Hungarians and Gypsies, with a mediaeval centre boasting colourful facades, old ramparts, secret narrow cobbled streets, guard towers and the largest gothic church between Vienna and Istanbul. Long under Saxon rule, the town betrays hints of its previous inhabitants in many of the buildings, with fine examples of merchants’ houses and an impressive Byzantine style cathedral, and it is still possible to see the old fortifications which once protected Brasov from invaders.

Day 3 – Bran Castle – Sibiu
This morning we visit the stunning Bran Castle, tenuously linked to the legend of Dracula, and then head to Sibiu, one of the best preserved medieval cities in Romania and carefully restored in recent years. We have time to explore the old centre with its ramparts, churches and narrow alleys. We then head to the small village of Sibiel, a very traditional shepherd community whose inhabitants still practice age old customs. Overnight local house or guesthouse. (BD)

Sibiu
Sibiu’s colourful old town is a spectacular sight to behold, with its fantastic old cathedrals, merchants;’ houses and public squares – it positively exudes medieval atmosphere. Sibiu itself is divided into an old and new quarter, although to be fair even the new quarter contains impressive buildings dating back to the 16th century. The city is known to exist from the 12th century, rising in prominence to become an important trading town. Like Brasov it was inhabited by Saxon merchants who formed themselves into guilds, fortifying the town to protect its wealth. Sibiu is packed full of fascinating sites to explore, from its ramparts and towers to its passageways linking the two parts of the town together.

Day 4 – Biertan - Sighisoara

We head to the village of Biertan with its imposing fortified church, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. After visiting the church we head to Sighisoara with its beautiful medieval citadel. We explore the fortress and also visit the house where Vlad the Impaler was born. Our hotel tonight is in the centre of the citadel. Overnight Hotel Sighisoara or similar. (B)

Sighisoara
In a region full of spectacular architecture, Sighisoara manages to stand out. Its fortified old town is a mass of medieval houses, testament to its previous existence as an important centre of commerce, with artisans from throughout the Holy Roman Empire visiting the settlement. The town was dominated by Saxon artisans and craftsmen, who also built the fortifications protecting it. Most impressive is the old clock tower, constructed in the 13th and 14th centuries as part of the town’s defences and today containing a museum giving an insight into Sighisoara’s history.

Day 5 – Cluj - Hoteni, Maramures
We leave Sighisoara behind and head to Cluj, one of the most important cities in Transylvania. After exploring the town we travel to the beautiful and isolated region of Maramures, one of Romania’s most traditional regions. We stay in the village of Hoteni, one of the best preserved villages in the area, and our accommodation tonight is in a traditional wooden house at the foot of the Gutai volcanic mountains. (BD)

Maramures
The region of Maramures in the far north of Romania is renowned for retaining its pastoral and agricultural traditions, which remained largely intact even during the communist period of industrialisation. Today it is probably the best place for experiencing all that makes Romania so special – its adherence to old customs and its gentle way of rural life. The region is characterised by mountains and forests, with small medieval villages dotted around and many wooden churches dating back as far as the 14th century – Maramures can almost be described as a living museum. It is quite common to see people wearing traditional dress, especially during any of the numerous festivals which take place here. This is the Romania that everyone wants to see – alluring and bursting with tradition.

Day 6 – Sapanta - Sighetu

Drive to Sapanta to visit the ‘Merry Cemetery’ known for its brightly painted gravestones and humorous epitaphs. We then visit Sighetu and its old Austrian prison, today home to a superb museum dedicated to the repression suffered during Communist times. Later we drive back to the Mara Valley and in the village of Harnicesti we take a short walk through orchards and gardens and along the shores of Mara river, before returning to Hoteni for the night. Overnight guesthouse. (BD)

Day 7 – Poienile Izei - Ieud

We visit the workshops of traditional craftsmen before continuing to Poienile Izei, a remote village home to a traditional wooden church, which contains impressive frescoes depicting visions of hell. We then travel to the village of Ieud, and our accommodation with the welcoming Ilea family. We visit the oldest wooden church in Romania, dating from 1364, and we also pay a visit to the local blacksmith of the village. Overnight local house. (BD)


Day 8 – Carpathian Mountains - Bucovina

We spend today walking in the stunning Carpathian Mountains, home to fascinating wildlife and isolated villages. Walking up to the Gargalau Saddle we are afforded superb views of the mountains as well as dramatic waterfalls. After meeting our transport we follow the shores of the Bistrita River and pass through the beautiful villages of Botos and Ciocanesti, surrounded by high mountains covered in thick black conifer forests. Later we arrive in Sucevita where our accommodation is in a traditional local house in the village. Depending on time we will visit the gloriously painted Sucevita Monastery. (BD)

Carpathian Mountains
The Carpathian Mountains stretch across a wide part of Eastern Europe, encompassing parts of Romania, Ukraine, the Czech Republic, Slovakia, Poland, Hungary and Serbia. Rich in wildlife they are home to some of Europe’s last remaining populations of large mammals, with bears, wolves and lynx to be found prowling through the forests. The birdlife here is equally spectacular, with raptors such as eagles a frequent sighting. This is one of the most pristine environments to be found on the continent and excellent walking country, with superb views to be had from every angle and the possibility of seeing wildlife adding further excitement.

Day 9 – Painted Monasteries of Bucovina

In the morning we visit Moldovita Monastery, a wonderful masterpiece of Moldavian Gothic architecture adorned with lively exterior frescoes dating back to the beginning of the 16th century. Later we visit Voronet monastery – the best known of the painted monasteries and a UNESCO World Heritage Site -– also named the Sistine Chapel of the East. In the evening we return to our hosts in Sucevita, the Trandafir family, who are waiting for us with a home-cooked dinner. (BD)

Painted Monasteries of Bucovina
The impressive monasteries of Bucovina, Romania, with their fine exterior and interior frescoes, have been preserved and handed down from mediaeval times, and because of their uniqueness and artistic value, were added to UNESCO’s World Cultural Heritage List in 1993. Most of the churches are fortified with strong defensive surrounding walls as protection against Turkish invaders and they sheltered large armies of soldiers awaiting battle. The exterior walls of the monasteries are richly decorated with vivid frescoes depicting dramatic Biblical scenes, intended to teach Christianity to the illiterate by means of pictures. The artwork has amazingly survived harsh exposure to the elements for over 450 years and the intense colours have been well preserved. The best of the monasteries are generally considered to be Voronet, Sucevita, Moldovita and Arbore.

Day 10 – Tarpesti - Galati

This morning we visit a traditional pottery workshop before heading to the village of Tarpesti and the remarkable Popa Museum. At his home, Nicolae Popa has gathered an incredible collection of Romanian folk art and handicrafts, giving us a fantastic insight into the ancient traditions of this region. We visit the museum and have a home prepared lunch here, before continuing to our final destination for the evening, Galati, situated on ancient trade routes between the Black and Baltic Seas. Overnight tourist class hotel. (BL)

Day 11 – Danube Delta

Travel to Tulcea to meet our boat to take us into the Danube Delta. After reaching the village of Crisan we change boats to travel away from the main tourist thoroughfares deeper into the Delta’s backwaters and the village of Mila 23, a traditional fishing settlement of thatched cottages. We stay with a local family in their home and guesthouse and get to see how daily life is lived in this most idyllic and picturesque of settings. (BD)

Danube Delta
The Danube Delta is the best preserved of Europe’s delta regions and a wetland paradise for wildlife, with over 300 species of birds in its numerous lakes and marshes. Species include storks, egrets, pelicans, eagles and numerous species of ducks. Birds are not the only inhabitants of the Delta though, and there is also a rich community of fish and animals, from wildcats, foxes and wolves, and even an occasional boar or deer. The region is also home to some very traditional villages, many of them, like Mila 23, home to Lipovani descendants of the ‘Old Believers’ who left Russia in the 18th century to avoid religious persecution. We avoid the ‘floating hotels’ that most companies use as these are unable to reach the most interesting parts of the Delta, but stay in a delightful village as guests of a local family who are able to show us all the intricacies of traditional delta life. Using rowing boats we are able to get much closer to wildlife than many other groups.

Day 12 – Danube Delta

Spend the full day exploring the lesser visited channels of the delta by small boat, allowing us to reach some of its most beautiful parts. There are superb opportunities for spotting some of the region’s spectacular wildlife, as well as seeing some of the isolated communities deep within the backwaters, some of which still contain traditional houses built with reeds. In the afternoon we head back to our hosts who are waiting for us with a home cooked dinner. Overnight local house / guesthouse. (BLD)

Day 13 – Tulcea - Bucharest

We leave the Delta behind and travel by boat back to Tulcea, arriving at lunchtime. From there we head back to Bucharest for our final night. Overnight Hotel Capital or similar. (B)

Day 14 - Bucharest
Tour ends. (B)

Tour style: Traveller

Inclusions:

Arrival and departure transfers
All accommodation on twin share basis
Services of English speaking guide / tour leader
Meals as listed (B – Breakfast, L – Lunch, D – Dinner)
Entrance fees for sites listed as part of the itinerary

Excluded:

International flights
Any airport taxes
Travel Insurance
Visas
Drinks

Please note that you should also read the Country Notes in association with this itinerary for practical information about your trip and the destination you will be visiting.

The itinerary and supplementary information has been compiled with care and provided in good faith. However it may be subject to change, and does not form part of a contract between the client and Undiscovered Destinations.