Classic Myanmar

Notes

Essentials

Visas
Most nationals including UK, EU and US visitors require a visa for entry to Myanmar. As from 1 June 2011 it is now possible to obtain a visa upon arrival. If you intend to do this it is essential that you contact us at least one month before departure as we will need to provide certain details to our local partners to enable the visa to be issued - you cannot simply arrive and arrange the visa. Please note that there is an arrangement fee of £40 per person for this (£20 if travelling as part of a couple), and the visa will cost $30 upon arrival.

Visa regulations change frequently so please check for the most up to date information.

Airport Tax
No departure tax is payable when leaving Myanmar.

Health and Immunisations
As with travel to most parts of Asia, we strongly recommend that you contact your doctor’s surgery or a specialist travel clinic for up-to-date information, advice and the necessary vaccinations. For a visit of less than one month, almost certainly you will be advised to have immunisations against the following: Diphtheria and Tetanus, Hepatitis A, Typhoid, Meningitis. Anti-malaria medication will also be required and the use of a DEET-containing insect repellent is highly recommended.

Insurance

• What should my travel insurance policy cover?
• medical and health cover for an injury or sudden illness abroad
• 24 hour emergency service and assistance
• personal liability cover in case you’re sued for causing injury or damaging property
• lost and stolen possessions cover
• cancellation and curtailment (cutting short your trip) cover
• Extra cover for activities that are commonly excluded from standard policies, such as certain sports

The policy should cover the whole time that you are away.

Your policy may also have:

• personal accident cover
• personal accident cover

Common travel insurance policy exclusions

Always check the conditions and exclusions of your policy:

• most policies will not cover drink or drug-related incidents

You must take reasonable care of your possessions or your policy will not cover you.

Local currency
The currency is the Kyat is pronounced like the English word ‘chat’. For current exchange rates visit www.xe.com. Our advice is to travel with US dollars cash. You must ensure your notes are clean and crisp – many places will not accept notes with even small blemishes. In addition to this US$100 notes with the CB prefix for the serial number will not be exchanged. Dollars are widely accepted at tourist establishments such as hotels or restaurants. However you will still need kyat for smaller items, including taxi rides, bottles of water and buying souvenirs from markets.

Where currency can be exchanged
Our advice is to exchange sufficient funds in Yangon or one of the other major cities. Hotels routinely change US dollars and other currencies in Yangon, but outside of the capital you may find that only dollars can easily be changed. Throughout your stay in Myanmar you will be approached to change money on the black market, of course this is something we advise against. It is also possible to exchange Euros, US dollars and Singapore dollars at the airport, for good rates of exchange.

Credit cards and travellers cheques
As a general rule we advise against taking travellers’ cheques as they can be difficult to change in Myanmar. Although some of the larger hotels will accept Visa or Mastercard, officially these are not accepted due to international sanctions. Some establishments get around this by processing transactions through another country, often Singapore. You should be aware that additional charges may apply. There are no ATM machines in Myanmar.

Best time to go
The best time to visit Myanmar is between November and February. During these months it rains less, and often not at all in some places, while the searing heat of other months is absent. March to May is very hot - daily temperatures in Yangon (Rangoon) often reach 40ºC (104ºF), while Bagan and Mandalay can be even hotter. The monsoon starts between mid-May and mid-June, bringing frequent rains through till October, with heaviest rainfall from July to September.

Main Language
Myanmar’s official language is Burmese, the language of the Bamar majority. Traveller will however find that basic English is widely spoken in urban areas and around popular tourist sites.

Main Religion
Around 90% of the population is Buddhist. The remainder are Hindu, Muslim, Christian and animist.

Food and drink
Myanmar’s food is a mixture of Indian and South East Asian cuisine, as you might expect from its location. Curries are very common and slightly different from those of its neighbours, although not usually as heavily spiced. Noodles are a popular dish, especially in Shan state, and soups are also fairly prevalent.

You will also see many Indian and Chinese restaurants throughout Myanmar, and in the more touristed areas such as Bagan and Inle Lake there are restaurants serving western style food.

If you have any special dietary requirements you must notify us at the time of booking. While we will make every effort to cater for you, we cannot guarantee that this will be possible.

For visitors Myanmar is generally a cheap country, although prices will vary depending on where you eat and drink. A lunch or 2 course dinner at most of the hotels featured on our tours will cost in the region of $10 to $15. Outside of the hotels costs can be considerably cheaper with a simple meal costing just a few dollars. Local drinks are also cheap, but expect to pay higher prices for imported alcohol.

Transport
Our tours in Myanmar use either private cars or private buses.

We also use scheduled flights to travel between major cities.

Some trips use the Pandaw River steamers. These are luxury craft built to high standards, with en suite cabin accommodation.

Local conditions
Travelling in the destinations that we visit requires a good deal of understanding that often standards simply won’t be as they are at home. While we aim to make your trip as comfortable as possible, please be aware that we are often visiting remote or less developed regions that may have little infrastructure. While we aim to make your trip run as smoothly as possible there may be times when we need to ask for your patience while we rectify any problems.

Should I travel to Myanmar?
There are conflicting and well-documented views on whether or not British tour operators should promote tourism to Myanmar. Undiscovered Destinations is a non-political organisation, and we believe that there is as much potential harm inflicted by isolating the country as by allegedly supporting the regime by sending tourists. We use a privately-owned Burmese ground agent for all our services in Myanmar, and when possible only use internationally-managed, non-government hotels. Tourism brings essential employment to the local communities within Myanmar and we believe this important point should not be overlooked.

What to take with you

First Aid Kit
The first thing on your list should be a first aid kit. Whilst there is no undue cause for alarm, travellers are best advised to travel well-prepared: adequately immunized, with sufficient supplies of prescription drugs, along with a medical kit.

Clothing
When it comes to clothing it is usually recommended that lighter clothes are worn through the day, and warmer ones at night. A hat is also advised to be worn through the day to protect from the sun, along with at least one piece of waterproof clothing for any days that the weather may be wet or windy.

Footwear
Footwear is a main priority on this tour. Comfortable walking shoes/boots are recommended.

Luggage
Your luggage should not exceed 20kgs (44lbs). One large rucksack, and one small hand luggage rucksack is acceptable.

Other
Suncream/sunblock is a must. When out on tour, it is important to have suncream with you, as there will not be any services nearby in which to provide it.

Insect repellent, including a bite spray will be useful to have.

If you will be using a camera which needs film, it is recommended that a supply is taken with you, as it is not always available locally. For those with digital cameras, we would advise you to take a spare battery.

Fitness
This tour does not require any special degree of fitness but you will find it more enjoyable if you are reasonably fit.

Cultural and environmental guidelines
You may come across beggars while on tour. Every traveller has different perspectives on this and ultimately the choice is up to you. Many sources recommend that you watch to see if local people give, and then follow their lead with genuine beggars. We do not recommend giving money, sweets, pens etc to children as this can encourage a begging mentality and can lead to children choosing to beg rather than go to school.

Haggling is a way of life in Asia when making many purchases, especially with tourist souvenirs. Usually, but not always, the vendor will start with a price that is higher than they are prepared to accept, and the buyer is expected to haggle. There are no hard and fast rules with this – some vendors may initially quote a vastly overinflated price, others may start with a price close to the true value, while others may just present you with one price and not be prepared to discuss it. Although many tourists may feel uncomfortable with this, it’s important to remember that this is best entered into in a relaxed manner. Once you have agreed upon a price, it is extremely bad form to then not pay this. Please also bear in mind that a small amount of money to you can be a relatively large amount for the vendor, and that it is not necessarily best practice to ‘beat the vendor down’ to the lowest possible price. Remember that they also have a living to make.

Please make sure that you take any rubbish back to the hotel with you where it can be properly disposed of – this includes cigarette butts as well.

Please do not buy any products made from endangered species – this is not sustainable and hastens the species’ decline.

ou should be aware that although things are now beginning to change Myanmar is quite a closed society, and that plainclothes surveillance officers are often present. This is nothing to worry about but you should not try to engage local people in discussions about politics as this could have serious repercussions for them.

Photography
You should always ask permission before taking anyone's photograph and respect their decision if they say no. In more remote areas women and older people often do not want to be photographed. Some people may also ask for some money – sometimes a little, sometimes a lot - in return for a photo. Taking photos of military installations, state buildings, and airports can lead to problems with local authorities. If you are unsure about whether it is acceptable to take a photo, please ask your tour leader or guide.

Tipping
Tipping is common practice in Asia. If your local guide has been helpful then you could think about tipping. As a rough guide, drivers can be tipped between $2-4 per day and guides between $7-15 per day – these figures are per group, not per person.

Foreign Office Advice
We constantly monitor the advice posted by the British Foreign and Commonwealth Office (FCO). In particular we will always advise clients of any travel warnings. At present there are no warnings against travel to Myanmar. Please feel free to contact us should you have any specific concerns or would like to know in detail what measures are being taken to ensure visits remain trouble free and without incident.

It should be noted that this information applies to British citizens. Other nationals are asked to check the current position of their respective government.

Further Information

Public Holidays in Myanmar:

4 Jan Independence Day.
12 Feb Union Day.
2 Mar  Peasants' Day.
10 Mar Full Moon of Tabaung.
27 Mar Armed Forces Day.
12-16 Apr Maha Thingyan (Water Festival).
17-21 Apr Myanmar New Year.
1 May May Day. 
8 May Full Moon of Kasone. 
6 Jul Beginning of Buddhist Lent
19 Jul Martyr's Day.
3 Oct End of Buddhist Lent.
1 Nov Tazaungmon Full Moon Day.
11 Nov  National Day.
25 Dec Christmas Day.

Dates are for guidance only and may vary year to year

Electrical Supply
Electrical supply is 230V/50 Hz and plugs have three large pins, like the UK or sometimes two round pins, similar to many European countries.

Recommended Reading

Burma- Lonely Planet Guide
Robert Reid and Michael Grosberg

Perfect Hostage
Justin Wintle

The River of Lost Footsteps
Thant Myint U

Burmese Days
George Orwell

IMPORTANT NOTES – PLEASE READ

Please note that the information provided is correct at the time of writing but may change. It is intended as a guide only. Further information regarding vaccinations and travel health visit www.fitfortravel.scot.nhs.uk or contact your local healthcare provider.

In addition we strongly advise you to check the information and any travel advice provided by your government. For British citizens you should visit the Foreign Office website www.fco.gov.uk.

Furthermore, you should be aware that any travel warnings or advisories may affect the validity of your travel insurance. Therefore, at the time of booking your tour it is essential you check any restrictions on cover with your insurance provider.

Issue Date – 18/08/09

For possible changes to this dossier please visit www.undiscovered-destinations.com or call +44 (0)191 296 2674

Historical background

There’s no getting away from it - travelling to Burma is controversial. The country is ruled by a harsh military dictatorship that quashes all opposition and refuses to implement democratic reforms. Critics claim that travelling to Burma supports the regime and brings further misery on its population. At Undiscovered Destinations we appreciate that many people will have doubts about travelling to the country but we believe that tourism, if directed in the right way, can have positive effects upon the Burmese people. We are careful about how we arrange our tours, ensuring that wherever possible we use privately owned services rather than state run enterprises. We support those people earning a living from Burma’s tourist industry – the taxi drivers, the guesthouse owners, the souvenir salesmen who depend wholly on visitors to the country to support their families. We believe that to abandon the country entirely sends the wrong message, and is ultimately unlikely to bring down a government with close links to wealthy multi-national organizations and supported by significant regional powers. It is possible to travel to Burma and have a conscience, and those that are prepared to put aside prejudice will find a warm welcome from the ordinary people of Burma.

The first civilization that we know of to evolve in Burma were the Pyu, who created a series of city states and benefitted from the trade between India and China. The Pyu arrived in Burma in the 1st century BC and practiced Theravada Buddhism, but were pushed out of the region by a group from Yunnan known as the Nanzhao in around the 9th century. The Mon were the next arrivals, pushed out of their base in Thailand some believe by the emerging Khmer Empire. Arriving in the 6th century, they established a number of kingdoms in the south of the country including Bago and Thaton. But it was perhaps the Bamar, arriving in the 8th or 9th century that left the greatest mark on Burma, the mighty city of Bagan.

Bagan grew over the next centuries to become a powerful force, and under King Anawrahta unified the smaller kingdoms in the region, including the Mon. Bagan grew to become a significant religious centre, with numerous Buddhist temples built over its plains, as well as being a formidable power – it is estimated that by the 12th century South East Asia was either under the control of Angkor or Bagan, Bagan’s domain stretching from Tibet to present day Malaysia. Bagan was a centre of great learning, both religious and otherwise and had ties to other regional powers such as China.

A series of poor rulers in the 13th century led to the decline of Bagan, and by the time the Mongols swept through the region it could present little resistance. Initially the Mongols had simply asked Bagan to pay tribute, but upon refusal the Mongols assembled an army and defeated Bagan’s elephant back forces. Sporadic fighting continued for some years, but Bagan’s power was no more, one more casualty of the Mongols’ ruthless march across Eurasia. It disintegrated into several small kingdoms, with the Shan taking over the north of the country, Arakan developing in the west, Ava in the centre and the Mon in the south controlling smaller kingdoms, often little more than a walled town. The richest of these was Pegu, once a port of some significance and the envy of its neighbours, especially Taungoo. Taungoo was nominally under the control of Ava, but in the 16th century broke away, waged war on Pegu, and against all odds managed to unify Burma.

Under King Bayinnaung, Portuguese mercenaries, who had arrived in the area seeking trade, fortune and adventure, were enlisted to fight in his army, alongside the usual elephant back forces. Taking first Pegu, he then seized Manipur in present day India and fighting the kingdom of Chiang Mai and the Lao states of the Mekong, wreaking absolute havoc on South East Asia and causing such panic that the king of Siam surrendered rather than see his country destroyed. Bayinnaung created the largest empire Burma had ever seen, but following his death it began to unravel with Siam declaring independence and the kingdom of Arakan sacking Pegu with the aid of the Portuguese. Portuguese under one of the mercenary leader Felipe de Brito set up a small kingdom of their own, and the capital of Burma was moved north to Ava, cutting the kingdom off from the sea. Having been unified for such a short time, by the beginning of the 17th century Burma was in chaos.

The Mon took the capital Ava in 1752, prompting the king of Shwebo Alaungpaya to wage war against them. Alaungpaya set about repeating history – he reunified Burma and waged war on Thailand, attacking the capital Ayutthaya and initiating a long war in which Thailand eventually managed to reclaim some of its lost territory. His successor looked westwards towards territory over which the British had an interest, and conflict between who had legitimacy over the region led to the First Anglo-Burmese War in 1824. Lasting until 1826, the British managed to comprehensively defeat Burma, forcing it to pay crippling indemnities and wresting control of its western territories. In 1852 further disputes led to the Second Anglo-Burmese War, in which Britain emerged victorious once more and seized further land including Yangon.

The capital of Burma was moved to Mandalay, and its last king was Thibaw, renowned as a cruel but useless ruler who by all accounts was feared and hated by the people; he ruled. The British used his unpopularity as an excuse to intervene and in 1885 deposed him, ending centuries of Burmese rule and installing a colonial government. Thibaw was to live out the rest of his days in exile in India.

Under British rule, Burma was essentially ruled as part of India, with mass immigration from India encouraged by the British in order to fill labour requirements. There were of course tensions between the colonial government and the Burmese, often centred around religion and the fact that the Indian population was becoming more powerful. Their role as moneylenders did not increase their popularity, charging exorbitant rates of interest to Burmese farmers. Together with the descendants of liaisons between the British and local women, the Indians filled most of the roles within the civil service, causing widespread discontent among a population that felt that it had been robbed of its country. Independence movements began to emerge, led by charismatic individuals, often university students. One such man was Aung San. As a young man he and others travelled clandestinely to Japan during the Second World War to receive military training to oust the British occupiers. They became known as the ‘Thirty Comrades’ and occupy a special place in Burmese history for their efforts to establish independence for Burma. Returning to Burma with Japanese forces when the latter invaded Japan, they formed a provisional government but soon realised that life under their new overlords was not all that it was cracked up to be, and that promises of independence were nothing more than words. Switching to the Allied side, they helped British forces push the Japanese out of Burma.

Following the war, Aung San emerged as the most likely future leader of Burma, and talks were held between prominent Burmese independence activists and the British government. Before independence was achieved however Aung San was assassinated. Today he is revered as the father of the nation and is a national hero for the Burmese people. He left behind a two year old girl, Aung San Suu Kyi.

Burma was granted independence in 1948 and almost immediately slid into chaos. The northern hill tribes, who prior to British colonization had been independent of Burma, now found themselves part of a country they did not identify with. Various movements emerged with spectacular disagreements about how to run the country, and armed conflict became the order of the day. Burma was further destabilised by the entry of Chiang Kai Shek’s Kuomintang into the north east, escaping from Mao’s forces but finding themselves up against various communist groups in Burma itself. Ethnic minorities across Burma rose up to protest against the new government and Burma slid quickly into a whirlwind of violence. By 1949 most of the country was outside of government control, but during the next decade the central government gradually assumed control. In 1958 the military under Ne Win assumed control for a couple of years before handing power back to U Nu.

Burma’s political landscape remained contentious and fractious. In 1962 Ne Win assumed power once more through a coup d’état, and abolished all political parties. Under him Burma took the socialist path, nationalizing industries and generally isolating itself from the rest of the world. Dissent was dealt with in an all too familiar pattern of brutality and repression, minority ethnic groups were persecuted, and the nation suffered greatly under a regime of corruption and military dictatorship. In the late 80’s Ne Win demonetised currency resulting in the loss of savings of many people, with the result that some of the country’s more able traders were forced into exile. The situation for ordinary people within Burma became untenable, and in 1987 and 1988 protests erupted across the country, again met with violence. Ne Win retired from government but was replaced by people who were little better, and discontent continued to grow. Under the leadership of Aung San Suu Kyi, the National League for Democracy called for elections. Relenting to public pressure, the government allowed elections to go ahead in 1990 but when the NLD won a decisive victory refused to let Suu Kyi assume her role as head of state. For daring to challenge the military dictatorship, Aung San Suu Kyi has been continually harassed, imprisoned and put under house arrest ever since in the government’s attempt to hold onto power. At present there seems little prospect for democracy – large protests led by Burma’s monks in 2007 were effectively put down, and although elections are due to be held in the imminent future, Aung San Suu Kyi remains under house arrest and will probably be unable to stand for them.

One cannot deny that Burma’s recent history is tragic. Far from being a free society, the military retains control of Burma with an iron hand. We believe however that it is possible to visit Burma without propping up its regime. Burma is a spectacular place to visit – a devoutly Buddhist country, sites such as the glittering Shwedagon pagoda are among the most beautiful in Asia, while Bagan is undoubtedly one of the world’s treasures, a sprawling plain dotted with imposing temples that invite you to spend a few days lazily exploring them and uncovering their treasures. You won’t find too many other visitors in Burma, and we believe that is a shame, both for travellers and for the Burmese themselves. Burma is one of the most stunning countries in Asia with remnants of a long and glorious history intertwined with a religious devotion that cannot fail to make an imprint on even the most jaded of travellers. Explore its treasures on a journey that will remain with you forever.