Indonesia - Sulawesi Explorer

Notes

Essentials

Visas
Most nationalities, including the UK, US and EU nationalities, require a visa to enter Indonesia but this will be granted on arrival, for a stay of up 30 days. Regulations can and do change and so we recommend that you check with your nearest embassy or consulate for the most up to date information.

Airport Tax
A payment of 150,000 rp in cash is required upon leaving Indonesia.

Health and Immunisations
As with travel to most parts of the developing world, we strongly recommend that you contact your doctor’s surgery or a specialist travel clinic for up-to-date information, advice and the necessary vaccinations. For a visit of less than one month, almost certainly you will be advised to have immunisations against the following: Diphtheria and Tetanus, Hepatitis A, Typhoid, Meningitis. Anti-malaria medication will also be required and the use of a DEET-containing insect repellent is highly recommended.

Insurance

• What should my travel insurance policy cover?
• medical and health cover for an injury or sudden illness abroad
• 24 hour emergency service and assistance
• personal liability cover in case you’re sued for causing injury or damaging property
• lost and stolen possessions cover
• cancellation and curtailment (cutting short your trip) cover
• Extra cover for activities that are commonly excluded from standard policies, such as certain sports

The policy should cover the whole time that you are away.

Your policy may also have:

• personal accident cover
• legal expenses cover

Common travel insurance policy exclusions
Always check the conditions and exclusions of your policy:

• most policies will not cover drink or drug-related incidents

You must take reasonable care of your possessions or your policy will not cover you.

Practical information

Local Currency
The currency in Indonesia is the rupiah (rp). For current exchange rates visit www.xe.com.

Where currency can be exchanged
It’s relatively easy to exchange money in Indonesia’s larger towns and cities – either at banks or moneychangers. However once you get away from the main centres it can become more difficult, so we recommend that you change enough money in major towns to last you through until you reach the next one. ATM machines are available but again, only in bigger towns. It’s best to bring foreign currency in US dollars.

Credit cards and travellers cheques
It is extremely difficult to exchange travellers’ cheques in the parts of Indonesia that we visit, and we do not recommend that you bring them. The use of credit cards is also extremely limited, and so we recommend that you bring cash in either rupiah or US dollars.

Best time to go
The best time to visit most of Indonesia is between May and October – although the temperature is fairly consistent throughout the year, these months receive the least rain. The climate on Papua is slightly more complex however - from November to April the north coast sees heavy rains, while in the highlands the monsoon is between December and March, with another peak in August. The least amount of rain usually falls in either July or September. In the south-east the monsoon is between May and October with a rainfall of nearly 6,000mm.

Main Language
The official language of Indonesia is Bahasa Indonesia. However, as you might expect with a country as large and spread out as Indonesia, there are numerous – well over 200 – local dialects and languages.

Main Religion
Indonesia’s main religion is Islam – indeed it is the world’s most populous Islamic country – but plenty of other religions exist here. The island of Bali is mostly Hindu, while elsewhere Christianity, Buddhism and animist traditions are followed. In Papua, animism is the more prevalent tradition.

Food and drink
Indonesia’s food is varied and excellent. Rice and noodles tend to form the basis of a meal, with a little more excitement being provided by curries and stir fries with the liberal use of spices. Chillies are an ingredient in most meals, along with ginger, onion and garlic and any number of ground seeds or pastes. Of course, Indonesia is known for its peanut based satay sauce and this is quite popular. Chicken tends to be

the most popular meat, and outside of Bali, pork is fairly hard to come across. Vegetarians generally fare well in Indonesia with a wide variety of vegetables available, often ones that are rarely seen at home. Chinese food is also widely available in the country.

In some rural areas, and in particular in Papua, the choice is more limited. Vegetarians may find little variety in their meals here.

If you have any special dietary requirements you must notify us at the time of booking. While we will make every effort to cater for you, we cannot guarantee that this will be possible.

As a rough guide, a simple meal will cost around $1-2, while something more elaborate will cost $5-10 or more depending on where you eat.

Transport
Our tours in Indonesia use private minibuses and in Papua, public vehicles.

We also make use of motor boats within our itineraries.

We also use scheduled flights. It should be noted that the majority of Indonesian carriers do not meet the standards required and accepted in Europe and the United States and are prohibited from operating in the EU – these include the only airlines that fly some of the routes travelled on our trips.

Local conditions
Travelling in the destinations that we visit requires a good deal of understanding that often standards simply won’t be as they are at home. While we aim to make your trip as comfortable as possible, please be aware that we are often visiting remote or less developed regions that may have little infrastructure. While we aim to make your trip run as smoothly as possible there may be times when we need to ask for your patience while we rectify any problems.

What to take with you

First Aid Kit
The first thing on your list should be a first aid kit. Whilst there is no undue cause for alarm, travellers are best advised to travel well-prepared: adequately immunized, with sufficient supplies of prescription drugs, along with a medical kit.

Clothing
When it comes to clothing it is usually recommended that lighter clothes are worn through the day, and warmer ones at night. A hat is also advised to be worn through the day to protect from the sun. Even in the dry season it can rain and so you should make sure that you bring a waterproof jacket.

Footwear
Footwear is a main priority on our tours. Comfortable walking shoes/boots are recommended.

Luggage
Your luggage should not exceed 20kgs (44lbs). One large suitcase/rucksack, and one small hand luggage rucksack is acceptable.

Sleeping bag
For our Sulawesi trip, bedding is provided during the village stay, although you may wish to bring your own. For our ‘Lost Tribes of Papua’ tour, you will need to bring a sleeping bag and sleeping mat as these are not available locally. You should bring a towel for our trips in Indonesia.

Other
Suncream/sunblock is a must. Insect repellent, including a bite spray will also be useful to have. As our tour in West Papua involves camping, a torch (flashlight) is essential.

If you will be using a camera which needs film, it is recommended that a supply is taken with you, as it is not always easy to find in more remote areas of Indonesia. If you are travelling on our ‘Lost Tribes of Papua’ tour with a digital camera, it’s a good idea to take a spare battery as you will not always have the opportunity to charge your battery.

Fitness
This tour does not require any special degree of fitness but you will find it more enjoyable if you are reasonably fit.

Cultural and environmental guidelines

Women should not enter mosques unless specifically told they can do so and you should always refer to your guide regarding dress code and behaviour in and near religious sites.

You may come across beggars while on tour in Indonesia. Every traveller has different perspectives on this and ultimately the choice is up to you. Many sources recommend that you watch to see if local people give, and then follow their lead with genuine beggars. We do not recommend giving money, sweets, pens etc to children as this can encourage a begging mentality and can lead to children choosing to beg rather than go to school.

Haggling is a way of life in Asia when making many purchases, especially with tourist souvenirs. Usually, but not always, the vendor will start with a price that is higher than they are prepared to accept, and the buyer is expected to haggle. There are no hard and fast rules with this – some vendors may initially quote a vastly overinflated price, others may start with a price close to the true value, while others may just present you with one price and not be prepared to discuss it. Although many tourists may feel uncomfortable with this, it’s important to remember that this is best entered into in a relaxed manner. Once you have agreed upon a price, it is extremely bad form to then not pay this. Please also bear in mind that a small amount of money to you can be a relatively large amount for the vendor, and that it is not necessarily best practice to ‘beat the vendor down’ to the lowest possible price. Remember that they also have a living to make.

Please make sure that you take any rubbish back to the hotels or camps with you where it can be properly disposed of – this includes cigarette butts as well.

Please do not buy any products made from endangered species – this is not sustainable and hastens the species’ decline

Photography
You should always ask permission before taking anyone's photograph and respect their decision if they say no. In more remote areas women and older people often do not want to be photographed. Some people may also ask for some money – sometimes a little, sometimes a lot - in return for a photo. Taking photos of military installations, state buildings, and airports can lead to problems with local authorities. If you are unsure about whether it is acceptable to take a photo, please ask your tour leader or guide.

Tipping
Tipping is common practise throughout Asia. If your local guide has been helpful then you could think about tipping. This amount can obviously be left to you. When tipping a driver, a guide or hotel staff a few dollars will always be gratefully received.

Foreign Office Advice
We constantly monitor the advice posted by the British Foreign and Commonwealth Office (FCO). In particular we will always advise clients of any travel warnings. At the time of writing there are no warnings against travel to Indonesia. Please feel free to contact us should you have any specific concerns or if would like to know in detail what measures are being taken to ensure visits remain trouble free and without incident.

It should be noted that this information applies to British citizens. Other nationals are asked to check the current position of their respective government.

Further Information

Public Holidays in Indonesia:

1 Jan New Year’s Day.
17 Aug Independence Day.
25 Dec Christmas Day.

Many public holidays, even secular ones, are based on the Islamic lunar, or local calendars and so vary annually.

Dates are for guidance only and may vary year to year

Electrical Supply
Electrical supply is 230V/50Hz and plugs usually have two round pins like most European countries, or three pins in the British style.

Recommended Reading

The Rough Guide to Indonesia
Stephen Backshall, David Leffman, Lesley Reader and Henry Stedman

In the Time of Madness
Richard Lloyd Parry

The Open Cage
Daniel Start

Benedict Allen
Into the Crocodile’s Nest

IMPORTANT NOTES – PLEASE READ

Please note that the information provided is correct at the time of writing but may change. It is intended as a guide only. Further information regarding vaccinations and travel health visit www.fitfortravel.scot.nhs.uk or contact your local healthcare provider.

In addition we strongly advise you to check the information and any travel advice provided by your government. For British citizens you should visit the Foreign Office website www.fco.gov.uk.

Furthermore, you should be aware that any travel warnings or advisories may affect the validity of your travel insurance. Therefore, at the time of booking your tour it is essential you check any restrictions on cover with your insurance provider.

Issue Date – 24/09/09
For possible changes to this dossier please visit www.undiscovered-destinations.com or call +44 (0)191 296 2674

Historical Background

The vast nation of Indonesia encompasses a multitude of landscapes, people and history, stretching from the coast of Malaysia to the edge of Australia. The world’s most populous Moslem nation, it also hides a wealth of other customs, beliefs and religions which combine to make this one of the most exciting and diverse countries that there is. From ancient Buddhist civilisations at Borobodur to Hindu Bali, from the ancestor worship of Sulawesi to the groups of Papua, some of which are undoubtedly still undiscovered, Indonesia offers an enormous treasure chest of exciting cultural experiences which are unlike any others. There are still pockets in which modernity has only recently penetrated, people unconquered until well into the 20th century – indeed there remain regions where the modern world has no role to play, a rarity in this age of global homogenization and a refreshing change from the well beaten tracks of most of South East Asia. Indonesia is not one nation but many, each with different identities and their own particular secrets to reveal, and one could spend a lifetime traversing its islands and still not fully understand this complex nation. It is, perhaps, the most exciting country in the region and still offers genuinely exciting experiences for those looking for a different Asia.

Indonesia’s history stretches back almost to the emergence of man but little is really known of the civilisations that originally inhabited the islands, other than the facts that they practised rice farming. It is however known that as early as the 4th century, Indonesia had links with India, manifested in Hindu inscriptions and statues that have been found throughout the islands dating back to that period. It is also believed that trading links had been established with China and other parts of South East Asia. The first kingdoms that we really know of emerged around the 7th century, one of these being the kingdom of Sriwijaya, based in southern Sumatra. Sriwijaya was a powerful naval state based around the coastline, enjoying an enviable position by controlling the Melaka Straits and with contact with Hindu and Buddhist powers which led to it becoming renowned as a seat of learning. At the peak of its power, Sriwijaya controlled territory from Thailand to Borneo, but failed to make much of an impact beyond the coastal regions of South East Asia. It controlled both the Spice Route traffic and local trade, charging a toll on passing ships, and remained a formidable sea power until the thirteenth century, spreading its cultural influences throughout Sumatra, the Malay Peninsula, and western Borneo. The fact that it only controlled coastal areas allowed for the emergence of smaller kingdoms inland, such as Sanjaya and Saliendra, responsible for the spectacular Buddhist monuments at Borobodur. Sriwijaya remained a force to be reckoned with until the 11th century, when its power began to wane in the face of rival kingdoms and the influence of Islam. It ceased to exist in the 15th century when its last ruler, Parameswara, converted to Islam and founded the Sultanate of Malacca across the water on the Malay Peninsula.

The next major power to emerge was the Majapahit Empire, one of those kingdoms responsible for the decline of Sriwijaya. Based in eastern Java, Majapahit was a Hindu kingdom which emerged to control a territory ranging from Malaysia and Borneo to Timor and with a strong regional influence. Trade was conducted with China, Thailand and Cambodia. This was seen as Indonesia’s golden age, encompassing a strong economic base and the emergence of many cultural traditions and works of literature. Following the death of one of its rulers, Majapahit endured a succession struggle which significantly weakened its power, aided by revolts among some of its people and again, the influence of Islam. By the 15th century it had more or less been consigned to history.

All the while, Islam was spreading throughout the region, brought by traders from Arabia and India over the years who had initially established small coastal communities, building mosques and practicing their faith. Islam’s influence did not arrive suddenly in Indonesia, rather it spread slowly and gradually on the trade winds to establish footholds in places as far afield as Sulawesi. These trading communities emerged to slowly to become Islamic sultanates as Islam became the dominant religion in booth Java and Sumatra by the end of the 16th century. Indonesians tended to meld Islamic practices with their own older indigenous beliefs resulting in a unique form of the religion which still persists today.

The first Europeans to arrive were, as ever, the Portuguese who by the 16th century were sailing far and wide in their efforts to control the lucrative spice trade. The decline of the Majapahit Empire had left Indonesia weakened and unable to resist encroachments, and Portuguese ships were quick to establish bases in the region. From their base at Malacca they established forts and trading posts throughout Indonesia by way of conquest and alliances with local rulers. It was not long before Portugal had wrested control of the trade from Indonesia and enjoyed a monopoly on the spice trade. With them also came the Catholic faith, and missions were founded throughout the archipelago and Christianity began to seep into the region, resulting in the Christian communities that remain today in various areas.

Portugal enjoyed hegemony only for as long as they remained an independent power. Their traditional enemy Spain annexed the country in the latter half of the 16th century, putting an end to any further Portuguese expansion within the islands. Spain was to prove little match for the English navy just a few short years later, meaning that the Dutch were able to expand their nascent empire into the region. Better organised and with more money behind them, the Dutch usurped Portugal’s role as masters of the spice trade. Initially pursuing peaceful methods of trade, these later gave way to outright aggression and the conquering of territories, and in 1619 Dutch forces took the city of Jayakarta where they founded their capital, Batavia – today’s Jakarta. Organised into the Dutch East India Company, a private concern given royal charter, the Dutch expanded throughout the region, building themselves an empire which was to become one of the world’s most lucrative colonial possessions. The Dutch went on take the British territory of Makassar and focused on expanding their empire through conquest, meeting local resistance with often brutal retaliation. By the middle of the 18th century the Dutch East India Company had become rulers of a united Indonesia, often by exploiting local rivalries to weaken the more powerful states. The company was eventually discovered to be bankrupt in 1795, the result of incompetent management and widescale corruption. The company was formally dissolved by the Dutch government and its possessions became part of the Dutch colonial empire.

The early 19th century saw increased interest from the British, and although the Dutch put up a strong defence British troops under Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles were able to take the various islands on a piecemeal basis until by 1811 they had managed to secure control over the whole archipelago. British rule was short-lived however, and the signing of a peace treaty with Holland meant that Indonesia was relinquished just five short years later. Coming back to Indonesia, the Dutch faced an uprising in Java which cost 200,000 Javanese lives, and the Paderi War in Sumatra, which turned into a bitter seventeen year conflict before Dutch victory in 1838. Holland regained control and instigated a system of indentured labour and high taxes in order to gain maximum financial benefits from their colony, resulting in widescale suffering for ordinary Indonesians. Farmers found their stocks seized and land requisitioned as Indonesia was turned into one of the world’s largest exporters of cash crops such as coffee and sugar. For most of the colonial period, Dutch control over its territories in the Indonesian archipelago was tenuous. It was only in the early 20th century, three centuries after the first Dutch trading post, that the full extent of the colonial territory was established and direct colonial rule exerted across what would become the boundaries of the modern Indonesian state. Exploitation of the local workforce caused much resentment, both in Indonesia and in an increasingly liberal Holland, and eventually Holland brought in a set of measures intended to alleviate the worst effects of colonial rule, such as health and education programmes.

Unwittingly the Dutch had made a rod for their own back. Increasing awareness among the newly educated indigenous elite led to gathering calls for independence by the start of the 20th century, and nationalist movements began to emerge preaching non-co-operation as a means of attaining their goals. Holland reacted by banning some of these parties and throwing their activists, including future president Sukarno, into jail. But the bell was starting to toll for colonialism in Indonesia.

All this was put on hold during the Second World War. The war saw Indonesia invaded by Japanese forces who claimed to be liberating the islands from their colonial oppressors. They faced little resistance in Indonesia and quickly established control, forcing the Dutch administration to surrender. They were however no better, and often far worse, overlords than the Dutch. Many who lived in areas considered important to the war effort experienced torture, sex slavery, arbitrary arrest and execution, and other war crimes.

Thousands taken away from Indonesia as war labourers suffered or died as a result of ill-treatment and starvation. However their presence served to further politicise ordinary Indonesians, and some Japanese figures colluded with the Indonesian nationalists to declare independence, when it became evident that Japan would not remain in Indonesia. After the war, Indonesia was declared to be an independent state, with Ahmed Sukarno its first president.

The arrival of the British to accept the Japanese surrender caused chaos in Indonesia, with local groups refusing to relinquish the power that they thought they had won and many Japanese troops fighting against them in an effort to ensure that they were able to hand over the islands to Britain as promised. Dutch troops eventually landed to restore order in 1946, but faced mass opposition both from inside Indonesia and from a world which had an increasingly negative view of colonialism. They eventually withdrew in 1949 to leave Indonesia a fully independent nation.

Under Sukarno’s system of ‘guided democracy’, Indonesia pursued a course of animosity towards western powers, who he blamed for many of the country’s problems and historical suffering. Aligning himself with Soviet Russia and China, Sukarno became involved in anti-colonial struggles ion the region, notably the ‘konfrontasi’ with Malaysia which he saw as a puppet state of the west. West Papua, formally a Dutch territory until 1961, was also seized by Indonesia. Sukarno’s rule was not an easy one, and throughout the 1960s tensions in Indonesia began to grow between the Indonesian communist party and the army, which had built itself up to become a challenge to the authority of the presidency itself and was deeply opposed to the communists. Economic difficulties caused by overspending on the military fuelled rampant inflation, and the country during this time fell into a deep political and economic crisis. Following an attempted communist coup in which Sukarno himself was implicated, General Suharto was given widespread powers to control the country and restore order. Although Sukarno continued to rule, in effect his position was so weakened that he had transferred real power to Suharto – who was to seize it officially later anyway.

The first few months of Suharto’s rule saw a massive purge of communist sympathisers – it is estimated that around half a million Indonesians were killed within a matter of months, with many others thrown into jail without trials. Suharto consolidated his control of Indonesia very quickly and by 1967 Sukarno was stripped of all his powers, leaving Suharto as the undisputed ruler. Despite being responsible for the worst episode of bloodshed in Indonesia’s history, Suharto also moved to stabilise the economy and establish certain religious freedoms, although his regime was dictatorial in the extreme. Following the withdrawal from East Timor of Portugal in 1975, Indonesian forces occupied the territory, thus starting a bitter resistance struggle that was not to be resolved for almost thirty years.

Suharto was eventually to fall from power in 1998, forced to resign by increasing discontent at home and a shattered economy that could only be fixed by the IMF. Since then, Indonesia has moved towards democracy, although as in many developing nations all is not perfect, with secessionist struggles still taking place in remote parts of Aceh and West Papua. But with a nation this large, perhaps it is not entirely unsurprising – its people are a diverse collection of groups which were only unified under a nation in the 19th century, with many refusing to submit to the Dutch for some years afterwards. Its cultural diversity is unsurpassed within the region and beyond, and its heritage offers an absolute treat for anyone interested in history or anthropology. Indonesia is still in many respects undiscovered – there are still huge islands where few westerners visit, yet which hold untold treasures which will astound even the most jaded of travellers. Far away from the tourist enclaves of Bali it is possible to meet people for whom all of the above story is barely relevant, having lived according to age old customs far away from outside influences. Indonesia still offers something very exciting, very special, very unique, and it is a true joy to explore.