Haiti - Caribbean Treasure

Notes

Essentials

Visas
Most nationalities, including the UK, US and EU nationalities, do not require a visa to enter Haiti. Please note however that upon arrival you will be given an entry card that you’ll need to hand in when you leave the country. Regulations can and do change and so we recommend that you check with your nearest embassy or consulate for the most up to date information.

Airport Tax
No departure tax is currently payable on leaving Haiti by air.

Health and Immunisations
As with travel to most parts of the developing world, we strongly recommend that you contact your doctor’s surgery or a specialist travel clinic for up-to-date information, advice and the necessary vaccinations. For a visit of less than one month, almost certainly you will be advised to have immunisations against the following: Diphtheria and Tetanus, Hepatitis A, Typhoid, Meningitis. Anti-malaria medication will also be required and the use of a DEET-containing insect repellent is highly recommended.

Insurance
What should my travel insurance policy cover?

• medical and health cover for an injury or sudden illness abroad
• 24 hour emergency service and assistance
• personal liability cover in case you’re sued for causing injury or damaging property
• lost and stolen possessions cover
• cancellation and curtailment (cutting short your trip) cover
• Extra cover for activities that are commonly excluded from standard policies, such as certain sports

The policy should cover the whole time that you are away.

Your policy may also have:

• personal accident cover
• legal expenses cover

Common travel insurance policy exclusions
Always check the conditions and exclusions of your policy:

• most policies will not cover drink or drug-related incidents

You must take reasonable care of your possessions or your policy will not cover you.

Practical information

Local Currency
The currency in Haiti is the gourde (gde). For current exchange rates visit www.xe.com.

Where currency can be exchanged
It’s relatively easy to change money in Haiti, both at banks and at exchange counters in local shops in larger towns and cities. US dollars are the best currency to bring – although Euros are sometimes accepted this will not always be the case. UK sterling is very difficult to change. ATM machines can be found in Port au Prince but are rare or non-existent elsewhere.

Credit cards and travellers cheques
Travellers’ cheques are very difficult to exchange in Haiti and we do not recommend that you bring them. Credit cards are generally acceptable in better hotels and restaurants.

Best time to go
Haiti is warm all year round, with temperatures hovering around 30 ºC for most of the year. It does however experience a hurricane season, which should be avoided – from August to October.

Rains fall from May to October, although the north coast can be quite wet from November to March.

It can be quite a few degrees colder in the mountains, especially at night.

Main Language
The official language of Haiti is French, although you’ll find that most people speak Creole, a blend of English, French and African languages that can be quite incomprehensible for the visitor. In larger towns and cities you’ll often be able to find someone who speaks English. It’s a good idea to brush up on some basic French before you go to aid communication.

Main Religion
Haiti’s religion is perhaps one of its defining characteristics – although both Catholicism and Protestantism are practised these are melded with the indigenous belief in vodou (more popularly known in the west as voodoo). Vodou is a complex religion with a belief in one god and a number of different spirits, with a heavy emphasis on ceremonies which can often involve animal sacrifice. Vodou arrived in Haiti from West African slaves brought here to work on plantations.

Food and drink
Traditional Haitian food is a mixture of the various influences that have affected this country – French, American, African and even Arabic influences can be found in a typical meal. Like much of the Caribbean, rice and beans are a popular staple, supplemented by meat which can be pork, chicken or goat. Corn, cassava and millet also feature fairly heavily, and most meals will be served with some sort of sauce, usually tomato based and sometimes quite spicy. As you’d expect for an island in the Caribbean, Haiti’s seafood is excellent and well priced.

If you have any special dietary requirements you must notify us at the time of booking. While we will make every effort to cater for you, we cannot guarantee that this will be possible.

Haiti is relatively expensive in terms of eating out. For lunch you should expect to pay between $10 and $20, and dinner should cost $25-40, depending of course on what you order.

Transport
Our tours in Haiti use air conditioned minibuses, and to visit the Citadelle we may use tap taps – converted pick up trucks with bench seats in the back. We also use horses for the final stretch up to the Citadelle – these will be led by handlers and you will not be expected to lead your own horse. This is more of a walk and no experience is necessary.

We will also use domestic flights – despite Haiti being relatively small poor roads mean that these are sometimes the best way of getting around. These are typically small flights, holding around 20 passengers.

Local conditions
Travelling in the destinations that we visit requires a good deal of understanding that often standards simply won’t be as they are at home. While we aim to make your trip as comfortable as possible, please be aware that we are often visiting remote or less developed regions that may have little infrastructure. While we aim to make your trip run as smoothly as possible there may be times when we need to ask for your patience while we rectify any problems.

What to take with you

First Aid Kit
The first thing on your list should be a first aid kit. Whilst there is no undue cause for alarm, travellers are best advised to travel well-prepared: adequately immunized, with sufficient supplies of prescription drugs, along with a medical kit.

Clothing
When it comes to clothing it is usually recommended that lighter clothes are worn through the day, and warmer ones at night. A hat is also advised to be worn through the day to protect from the sun, along with at least one piece of waterproof clothing for any days that the weather may be wet or windy. We advise that you bring at least one pair of long cotton trousers for the ride up to the Citadelle.

Footwear
Footwear is a main priority on this tour. Comfortable walking shoes/boots are recommended.

Luggage
Your luggage should not exceed 20kgs (44lbs). One large suitcase/rucksack, and one small hand luggage rucksack is acceptable.

If however you intend buying any of the excellent sculptures or paintings available in Haiti, you might want to consider bringing an extra bag.

Other
Suncream/sunblock is a must. Insect repellent, including a bite spray will also be useful to have.

If you will be using a camera which needs film, it is recommended that a supply is taken with you, as it is not always easy to find in Haiti.

Fitness
This tour does not require any special degree of fitness but you will find it more enjoyable if you are reasonably fit.

Cultural and environmental guidelines

You may come across beggars while on tour in Haiti. Every traveller has different perspectives on this and ultimately the choice is up to you. Many sources recommend that you watch to see if local people give, and then follow their lead with genuine beggars. We do not recommend giving money, sweets, pens etc to children as this can encourage a begging mentality and can lead to children choosing to beg rather than go to school.

Haggling is a way of life in Haiti when making many purchases, especially with tourist souvenirs. Usually, but not always, the vendor will start with a price that is higher than they are prepared to accept, and the buyer is expected to haggle. There are no hard and fast rules with this – some vendors may initially quote a vastly overinflated price, others may start with a price close to the true value, while others may just present you with one price and not be prepared to discuss it. Although many tourists may feel uncomfortable with this, it’s important to remember that this is best entered into in a relaxed manner. Once you have agreed upon a price, it is extremely bad form to then not pay this. Please also bear in mind that a small amount of money to you can be a relatively large amount for the vendor, and that it is not necessarily best practice to ‘beat the vendor down’ to the lowest possible price. Remember that they also have a living to make.

Please make sure that you take any rubbish back to the hotels with you where it can be properly disposed of – this includes cigarette butts as well.

Please do not buy any products made from endangered species – this is not sustainable and hastens the species’ decline

Photography
You should always ask permission before taking anyone's photograph and respect their decision if they say no. In more remote areas women and older people often do not want to be photographed. Some people may also ask for some money – sometimes a little, sometimes a lot - in return for a photo. Taking photos of military installations, state buildings, and airports can lead to problems with local authorities. If you are unsure about whether it is acceptable to take a photo, please ask your tour leader or guide.

Tipping
Tipping is common practise in Haiti. If your local guide has been helpful then you could think about tipping. This amount can obviously be left to you. When tipping a driver, a guide or hotel staff a few dollars will always be gratefully received.

Foreign Office Advice
We constantly monitor the advice posted by the British Foreign and Commonwealth Office (FCO). In particular we will always advise clients of any travel warnings. At the time of writing the FCO does not advise against travel to any of the places visited on this tour.

Please feel free to contact us should you have any specific concerns or if would like to know in detail what measures are being taken to ensure visits remain trouble free and without incident.

It should be noted that this information applies to British citizens. Other nationals are asked to check the current position of their respective government.

Further Information

Public Holidays in Haiti:

1 Jan Independence Day.
2 Jan Ancestor’s Day.
1 May Labour Day. 
18 May Flag Day.
17 Oct Anniversary of Jean- Jacques Dessalines’ Death
1 Nov Anniversary of Toussaint Louverture’s Death
18 Nov Anniversary of the Battle of Vertieres. 
25 Dec Christmas Day.

In addition to these are the holidays associated with Easter, which vary annually. Also, towns and cities throughout Haiti will hold celebrations for their own particular patron saint.

Dates are for guidance only and may vary year to year

Electrical Supply
Electrical supply is 110-120V/50-60 Hz and plugs usually have two vertical pins.

Recommended Reading

Dominican Republic and Haiti – The Lonely Planet Guide
Paul Clammer, Jens Porup and Michael Grosberg

Bonjour Blanc
Ian Thomson

An Unbroken Agony
Randall Robinson

IMPORTANT NOTES – PLEASE READ

Please note that the information provided is correct at the time of writing but may change. It is intended as a guide only. Further information regarding vaccinations and travel health visit www.fitfortravel.scot.nhs.uk or contact your local healthcare provider.

In addition we strongly advise you to check the information and any travel advice provided by your government. For British citizens you should visit the Foreign Office website www.fco.gov.uk.

Furthermore, you should be aware that any travel warnings or advisories may affect the validity of your travel insurance. Therefore, at the time of booking your tour it is essential you check any restrictions on cover with your insurance provider.

Issue Date – 28/11/11

For possible changes to this dossier please visit www.undiscovered-destinations.com or call +44 (0)191 296 2674

Historical Background

Haiti has a poor reputation – until recently the poorest country in the western hemisphere and blighted for many years by social turmoil and a succession of brutal governments. In recent years however Haiti has emerged from its political troubles and intrepid travellers are starting to make the journey to this small Caribbean nation. Those that do come back with tales of friendly people, of world-class sights, and a vibrant nation that is determined and proud of its identity. Perhaps the cultural capital of the Caribbean, Haiti abounds in historic attractions, a legacy of its past as a centre of slavery and then the world’s first black republic. So far escaping the attention of the mass tourist market that arrives in droves to its neighbour, the Dominican Republic, Haiti is a part of the Caribbean where you can still find authentic local traditions and where local customs are practised with as much fervour as they were at any time during the past. Haiti is the Caribbean’s best kept secret, a reminder of what much of the region was like before its ‘discovery’ by mainstream tourism, and it offers the visitor the chance to meet a people and engage with a culture that has been so far largely ignored by the western world.

As is all too often the case with the region, little is known of Haiti’s history, or its original inhabitants, prior to the arrival of Europeans. Haiti and its neighbour the Dominican Republic, both part of the same island, were discovered by Christopher Columbus on his fateful voyage of discovery in 1492. He found them to be inhabited by an indigenous group who we know as the Taino. Taino society was based around both fishing and agriculture, and evidence and contemporary reports shows that they were skilled in both, implementing relatively sophisticated techniques to catch fish and turtles. Upon reaching the shores of the island, Columbus found the inhabitants to be welcoming and friendly, and established here a settlement known as Villa Le Navidad, the first European settlement anywhere in the New World. He named the island La Isla Espanola, later to become Hispaniola – the Spanish Island, and claimed it for the Spanish crown.

Columbus left and returned a year later to find little trace of his settlement – presumably it had been destroyed by the Tainos and the population killed, probably in revenge for Columbus’ kidnap of several local inhabitants who were taken back to Spain. Undeterred, Columbus established another settlement, and gradually more European settlers began to arrive, keen to make their fortunes from the gold that was to be found here. European settlement was a disaster for the Taino – they suffered both from unfamiliar diseases to which they had no immunity, and the brutal methods of the settlers who conscripted them as forced labour in conjunction with African slaves in an attempt to extract the island’s wealth. Taino civilisation was effectively wiped out after little over a quarter of a century, with just remnants of their society left.

Hispaniola became less important to Spain as its gold mines started to fall into disrepair – a result of the loss of Taino labour – and other, easier sources began to be found in the newly opened up Americas. As Spanish interest began to decline the colony began to stagnate, with most colonists to be found in the capital Santo Domingo. Spain’s power also began to wane in Europe, and Hispaniola proved a tempting prize for English and French navies as well as pirates. French buccaneers established a raiding base at Tortuga – now the Ile de la Tortue and set about attacking Spanish ships which came to trade with the colony, as well as raiding the land for cattle. Lack of effective government meant that Hispaniola became a haven for runaway slaves, and also left the island wide open to the predations of other European powers. By the end of the 17th century, France had managed to wrest control over the west of the island from Spain, naming it St Domingue. Under French rule the colony became prosperous, as attentions were focused on using it to grow crops such as tobacco and cotton, and later sugar and coffee, all aided of course by the importation of more African slaves. Life for slaves on the plantations was brutal – rules were enforced rigorously and transgressions punished equally. Work here was demanding to say the least and took its toll on the slaves – it is estimated that twenty per cent died within the first few years of arrival. Rebellions were a common occurrence and slaves often escaped to join the last remnants of the Taino population in the mountains, occasionally launching raids upon their former masters.

St Domingue had also developed a sizeable mixed race population, larger than that of other colonies, and under French law those not born as slaves were granted certain rights, such as the right to inherit property. However the legal system was also largely discriminatory, with statutes prohibiting them from taking up various professions and from marrying white settlers among other measures. Nevertheless with the right to inherit, the mixed race population, known as gens de couleur, were able to gain control of a full third of the plantations by the end of the 18th century.

The French revolution in 1789 was to have a profound effect upon St Domingue, with its egalitarian notions of the rights of man. Demands from the mulatto community for full rights were met with resistance from white settlers, which soon escalated into various conflicts, the seeds of revolution spreading beyond and to the slave community. In 1791, slaves staged a revolt which spread throughout the colony, with many seeking support from the Spanish part of the island against the French. Faced with widescale revolt, and with the political winds changing, the French governor granted freedom to slaves, a move which angered mulatto and white slave owners alike. They turned to Britain for support, which landed a force from nearby Jamaica, but when it was apparent that the French government had actually ratified the emancipation of slaves, a slave army under Toussaint Louverture fought to defeat the British. A former slave himself, Louverture managed to establish control over the various factions and install himself as ruler of the colony, also invading Spanish Santo Domingo and freeing the slaves there.

Under Napoleon however, Louverture’s actions were not viewed kindly. The tide had changed once more, and France invaded St Domingue with the intention of restoring slavery. Louverture was captured, to later die in exile in France. The colony erupted into warfare again, this time with a decisive result – France was vanquished and under Louverture’s former general Jean Jacques Dessalines, the colony of St Domingue was abolished in 1804, to be replaced with Haiti, the world’s first black republic. Under Dessalines however all was not well. In an act of revenge for slavery he massacred all remaining French inhabitants and forced people back onto the plantations. His rule was harsh and hated, and it was not long before he was assassinated by two of his generals, Petion and Christophe. Both went on to rule different parts of Haiti in different ways – Christophe ruling the north and maintaining the plantation system, albeit paying the workers now, while Petion redistributed land in the south and allowed people to maintain their own smallholdings. The two parts of Haiti were not reunited until the deaths of both men some years later, under the leadership of Jean Pierre Boyer.

Under Boyer, Haiti sought to re-establish ties with France, but this was to come at a price – the payment of compensation for the lost plantations. This put Haiti in a position of enormous debt, which could only be repaid by higher productivity from the plantations, leading to mass discontent and Boyer’s eventual overthrow in 1843. During his rule he had invaded and established control over the Spanish part of the island (only to be repulsed later) and encouraged immigration from black slaves in the USA, the descendants of whom remain in Haiti today.

The latter half of the 19th century was characterised by a series of revolts, rebellions and coups before Haiti became stable and prosperous, with industrial rum and sugar production providing a model for economic growth – for a while. The beginning of the 20th century however saw the USA grab its chance to become involved in Haiti, wary of increasing German influence in the country. Invading in 1915, the USA opened Haiti up for foreign investment and instigated a system of forced labour – seen by many as a return to slavery. Discontent brewed and boiled over into open rebellion, dealt with ruthlessly by the US military. The USA remained in Haiti until 1934 – although the occupation was very much hated there is no denying that American forces did much to improve the country, stablising its debt and improving infrastructure. Ports were modernised, roads built and a public health system established.

Despite this Haiti remained a country burdened with massive inequalities between its elite mulatto class – wealthy due to their previously privileged place under the French – and the black masses. In 1957, Francois Duvalier won elections based on a mandate to improve conditions for the black majority. His regime is regarded as one of the most repressive and corrupt of modern times, combining violence against political opponents with exploitation of Vodou to instill fear in the majority of the population. Painting himself as an anti-communist, he enjoyed support from the United States and set about eliminating all opposition, with widescale disappearances and killings carried out by his elite bodyguards, known as the ‘tontons macoutes’ after a popular villain in Haitian folklore. Pap Doc Duvalier, as he came to be known, attacked the mulatto elite and declared himself president for life, using his position to line his pockets with Haiti’s wealth. His persecution of the mulatto community lead to mass emigrations of some of the country’s most educated professionals, plunging Haiti into a cycle from which it has yet to properly recover. When he died rule passed to his 19 year old son, known as Baby Doc, who while he reversed some of the worst elements of his father’s rule, failed to rescue Haiti from its downward spiral. Baby Doc was forced to resign in 1986 after his mishandling of a swine flu epidemic which saw the widescale slaughter of pigs and plunged those peasant families who relied on them further into poverty.

Following the demise of the Duvalier dynasty, Haiti’s political life became fractured once more. After winning elections in 1990, Jean Bertrand Aristide, unpopular with the military due to some of his more radical policies, was overthrown and military government was established, condemned internationally. UN intervention led to Aristide’s return in 1994 and democracy was restored, only to founder a few years later when political rivalry descended into bloodshed as rival gangs laid waste to a number of towns and cities. Rebels captured key cities in an attempt to force Aristide from power, which essentially worked – in 2004 he left Haiti for the US, a move which he claims was in reality a kidnap by US forces, but which the USA says was his legitimate departure. Subsequent years saw UN forces deployed in Haiti to maintain control of its security and the rival political factions fighting each other for power.

Despite a turbulent past, Haiti today is moving away from the chaos which once characterised this small slice of the Caribbean. It is not perfect – few countries that have experienced such upheaval are – but this tiny nation now boasts a level of stability that it has rarely experienced, giving travellers the opportunity to delve into the complex history of this fractured region. Haiti is a land where the traditional religion, vodou, reigns supreme, a land of mystical beliefs intertwined with a fascinating past. In some people’s eyes it is not the Caribbean – you will find few, if any, all inclusive resorts here, and tourists are still something of a rarity. But to us that makes it all the more special. Haiti presents an opportunity for genuine cultural interaction, untainted by years of mass tourism, and the people here manage to put aside their previous problems and give visitors as warm a welcome as you would find at any five star beach hotel. Proud of their history, they are keen to show travellers the secrets of their beautiful land. And best of all, you’ll most likely have it all to yourself.