Eritrea Discovery

Notes

Essentials

Visas
Most nationals, including those from the UK, EU and US require a visa for entry into Eritrea. When you book we will require a copy of your passport together with details of your home address and occupation, which we will send to our colleagues in Asmara. This is then passed on to the immigration authorities in Asmara, who will issue authorisation for the Eritrean Embassy in your home country to grant the visa. You should not apply for your visa before this authorisation has been granted. Regulations do frequently change though, so we advise that you check the current requirements with your nearest embassy.

Airport Tax
A payment of US$20 in cash is required upon leaving Eritrea.

Health and Immunisations
As with travel to most parts of Africa, we strongly recommend that you contact your doctor’s surgery or a specialist travel clinic for up-to-date information, advice and the necessary vaccinations. For a visit of less than one month, almost certainly you will be advised to have immunisations against the following: Diphtheria and Tetanus, Hepatitis A, Typhoid, Meningitis. Anti-malaria medication is also required and the use of a DEET-containing insect repellent is highly recommended.

Insurance

• What should my travel insurance policy cover?
• medical and health cover for an injury or sudden illness abroad
• 24 hour emergency service and assistance
• personal liability cover in case you’re sued for causing injury or damaging property
• lost and stolen possessions cover
• cancellation and curtailment (cutting short your trip) cover
• Extra cover for activities that are commonly excluded from standard policies, such as certain sports

The policy should cover the whole time that you are away.

Your policy may also have:

• personal accident cover
• personal accident cover

Common travel insurance policy exclusions

Always check the conditions and exclusions of your policy:

• most policies will not cover drink or drug-related incidents

You must take reasonable care of your possessions or your policy will not cover you.

Practical information

Local Currency
The currency is the nakfa (NfA). For current exchange rates visit www.xe.com. Please note that on arrival you will be required to complete a currency declaration form. You must declare all foreign currency in possession. It is essential that you keep all receipts when exchanging money. We also recommend that you keep other receipts as provided, i.e. for meals. This is because Eritrea has very strict controls on foreign currency and on your departure you will be required to complete a further declaration form and this will be checked against your receipts. It is very important that your receipts are in order, as otherwise this will cause delays in your departure. Accordingly, we advise you not to change money on the ‘black market’ and to only use the services of official exchange bureaus and banks.Please note that you cannot take nakfa out of Eritrea, and if any local currency is found when you depart it will be confiscated.

Where currency can be exchanged
There are banks and money exchange offices in Asmara, but few if any facilities outside of the capital. Further information will be given by your local guide.

Credit cards and travellers cheques
Travellers’ cheques are difficult to exchange in Eritrea and credit cards are not widely accepted. We recommend that you bring cash as ATM machines generally only work if you have a local bank account. US dollars are generally the best currency to bring.

Best time to go
Eritrea can be visited anytime during the year. Much of the interior of the country, including the capital Asmara is at altitude, so there is not a huge range in temperatures. However to the far south in the Dankalia region temperatures can hit more than 45ºC during the summer.

Main Language
Tigrinya and Arabic are the two main languages spoken in Eritrea. Many people also speak some English, including those who come into contact with tourists. Many older people can also speak or understand Italian.

Main Religion
It is estimated that 50% of the population is Sunni Muslim and 30 percent is Orthodox Christian. The remainder are Roman Catholic, Protestants, Seventh-day Adventists, Jehovah's Witnesses, Buddhist, Hindus, and Baha'is.

Food and drink
Eritrea’s staple food is injera, a unique type of bread, which looks rather like a pancake and is made from tef, a type of cereal found only in the region, and very different from any other bread you will have tried. Injera will accompany most meals, which typically consist of a fish or meat based stew called zigini.

Stews are often quite spicy. In hotels the choice is likely to be more extensive and western dishes may also be served.

If you have any special dietary requirements you must notify us at the time of booking. While we will make every effort to cater for you, we cannot guarantee that this will be possible.

For visitors Eritrea is a cheap country. A 1.5L of bottled water or a local ‘Asmara’ beer costs about a dollar. A simple lunch or dinner will cost $10 or less.

Transport
Our tours in Eritrea use 4wd vehicles – typically Landcruisers. On occasions buses may be used.

Local conditions
Travelling in the destinations that we visit requires a good deal of understanding that often standards simply won’t be as they are at home. While we aim to make your trip as comfortable as possible, please be aware that we are often visiting remote or less developed regions that may have little infrastructure. While we aim to make your trip run as smoothly as possible there may be times when we need to ask for your patience while we rectify any problems.

What to take with you

First Aid Kit
The first thing on your list should be a first aid kit. Whilst there is no undue cause for alarm, travellers are best advised to travel well-prepared: adequately immunized, with sufficient supplies of prescription drugs, along with a medical kit.

Clothing
When it comes to clothing it is usually recommended that lighter clothes are worn through the day, and warmer ones at night. A hat is also advised to be worn through the day to protect from the sun, along with at least one piece of waterproof clothing for any days that the weather may be wet or windy.

Sleeping bag
A sleeping bag is required for our Dankalia Adventure tour – it is not required for any other tours in Eritrea.

Footwear
Footwear is a main priority on this tour. Comfortable walking shoes/boots are recommended.

Luggage
Your luggage should not exceed 20kgs (44lbs). One large suitcase/rucksack, and one small hand luggage rucksack is acceptable.

Other
Suncream/sunblock is a must. Insect repellent, including a bite spray will also be useful to have.

If you will be using a camera which needs film, it is recommended that a supply is taken with you, as it is not always available in Eritrea. For those with digital cameras, we would advise you to take a spare battery if you are travelling to the Dankalia, as recharging can sometimes be difficult.

Fitness
Our tours in Eritrea do not require any special degree of fitness but you will find them more enjoyable if you are reasonably fit.

Cultural and environmental guidelines

Eritrea is generally quite conservative when it comes to attitudes towards dress and you should respect this, especially when visiting mosques.

You may come across beggars while on tour in Eritrea. Every traveller has different perspectives on this and ultimately the choice is up to you. Many sources recommend that you watch to see if local people give, and then follow their lead with genuine beggars. We do not recommend giving money, sweets, pens etc to children as this can encourage a begging mentality and can lead to children choosing to beg rather than go to school.

Haggling is a way of life in Africa when making many purchases, especially with tourist souvenirs. Usually, but not always, the vendor will start with a price that is higher than they are prepared to accept, and the buyer is expected to haggle. There are no hard and fast rules with this – some vendors may initially quote a vastly overinflated price, others may start with a price close to the true value, while others may just present you with one price and not be prepared to discuss it. Although many tourists may feel uncomfortable with this, it’s important to remember that this is best entered into in a relaxed manner. Once you have agreed upon a price, it is extremely bad form to then not pay this. Please also bear in mind that a small amount of money to you can be a relatively large amount for the vendor, and that it is not necessarily best practice to ‘beat the vendor down’ to the lowest possible price. Remember that they also have a living to make.

Please make sure that you take any rubbish back to the hotels with you where it can be properly disposed of – this includes cigarette butts as well.

Please do not buy any products made from endangered species – this is not sustainable and hastens the species’ decline.

Photography
You should always ask permission before taking anyone's photograph and respect their decision if they say no. In more remote areas women and older people often do not want to be photographed. Some people may also ask for some money – sometimes a little, sometimes a lot - in return for a photo. Taking photos of military installations, state buildings, and airports can lead to problems with local authorities. If you are unsure about whether it is acceptable to take a photo, please ask your tour leader or guide.

Tipping
Tipping is common practise in Africa. If your local guide has been helpful then you could think about tipping. This amount can obviously be left to you. When tipping a driver, a guide or hotel staff a few dollars will always be gratefully received.

Foreign Office Advice
We constantly monitor the advice posted by the British Foreign and Commonwealth Office (FCO). In particular we will always advise clients of any travel warnings. At the time of writing the Foreign and Commonwealth Office does not advise against travel to any of the areas within Eritrea that we visit on our tours. Please feel free to contact us should you have any specific concerns or if would like to know in detail what measures are being taken to ensure visits remain trouble free and without incident.

It should be noted that this information applies to British citizens. Other nationals are asked to check the current position of their respective government.

Further Information

Public Holidays in Eritrea:

1 Jan New Year's Day
6 Jan Orthodox Epiphany
10 Feb Fenkil Day
8 Mar Women's Day
9 Mar Birth of the Prophet
20 Apr Orthodox Easter Monday
1 May May Day
24 May Independence Day
20 Jun Martyrs' Day
1 Sep Anniversary of the Start of the Armed Struggles
25 Dec Christmas Day

Other holidays associated with Ramadan follow the lunar calendar and as such vary annually.

Dates are for guidance only and may vary year to year

Electrical Supply
Electrical supply is 220V/50 Hz and plugs have two-pronged connection with round rather than flat pins holes.

Recommended Reading

Eritrea - The Bradt Guide
Edward Denison

I Didn’t Do It For You
Michela Wrong

Ciao Asmara
Justin Hill

IMPORTANT NOTES – PLEASE READ

Please note that the information provided is correct at the time of writing but may change. It is intended as a guide only. Further information regarding vaccinations and travel health visit www.fitfortravel.scot.nhs.uk or contact your local healthcare provider.

In addition we strongly advise you to check the information and any travel advice provided by your government. For British citizens you should visit the Foreign Office website www.fco.gov.uk.

Furthermore, you should be aware that any travel warnings or advisories may affect the validity of your travel insurance. Therefore, at the time of booking your tour it is essential you check any restrictions on cover with your insurance provider.

Issue Date – 17/08/09

For possible changes to this dossier please visit www.undiscovered-destinations.com or call +44 (0)191 296 2674

Historical background

Africa’s newest country, tiny Eritrea, is one that seems to have an overwhelmingly disproportionate effect on its visitors. Sandwiched between the highland plateau of Ethiopia and the Red Sea, Eritrea sits strategically at the crossroads of many different cultures and trade routes, but has managed to retain its own distinct identity – a marvel when you consider what the country has been through in the last century or so. With breathtakingly beautiful mountains to stark and forbidding deserts, Eritrea has so much to offer the few intrepid travellers that make it there. Rugged highlands harbour picturesque villages and breathtaking views, while those that venture into Dankalia enter into an other-worldly environment, harsh yet beautiful, where against all odds Afar tribesmen manage to scrape a living among the salt lakes and steaming geysers. Eritrea’s capital Asmara is one of the most bizarre cities you are likely to find on the African continent, a testament to modernist and Art Deco architecture, divorced from context and supplanted thousands of miles away from those who conceived it. But it is perhaps Eritrea’s people that are the enduring memory for visitors. Take the time to talk to locals and you will find a proud and dignified people, with an identity forged through years of struggle, and will make friends at every place you stop. Eritrea is slowly emerging as a tourist destination, but at the moment visitors are so few that you will feel privileged to step into this largely unknown land and discover a culture and history that the outside world is largely unaware of.

Eritrea as a separate nation is a very recent phenomenon, but its history dates back almost to the dawn of man – it is in this region that archaeologists continue to uncover fossils of early hominids which give tantalizing clues to our first steps on this earth. Of more recent, but still ancient, history, Eritrea is thought to be one of the contenders for the land of Punt, mentioned in Pharoanic texts dating back to the 25th century BC. But detailed history does not date back that far. The Kingdom of Axum which arose in around the 1st century AD encompassed Eritrea and much of Ethiopia and in its time was known as one of the four most powerful civilizations in the world, together with Persia, China and Rome. Adopting Christianity sometime around the 4th century, Axum controlled the sea routes between Asia and Africa and controlling many parts of the area including a presence in Yemen. Links were established as far afield as Ceylon, India and Constantinople. Remnants of Axum’s greatness can be found in the town of the same name in neighbouring Ethiopia today, notably its impressive collection of enormous stelae. Militarily powerful, Axum remained a force to be reckoned with for several centuries, but the rise of Islam weakened its dominance and wrested control of the trade routes away from the empire. Axum was also weakened by growing Jewish resistance, which under Queen Yodit set about attempting to remove the influence of Christianity and destroyed much of Axumite civilisation.

The rise of Islam saw some of Eritrea’s lands fall under Moslem dominance. Beja people from the north migrated into the region, while the Dahlak Islands were converted to Islam and Arabs began to settle in coastal towns such as Massawa. Meanwhile the kings of Abyssinia fought to re-establish control of the region and gain access to precious Red Sea ports. For many centuries however Abyssinia was in a state of civil disarray, with internal rivalries hindering any unified attempts to colonise Eritrea, although there were brief periods when strong rulers managed to assert their authority over some highland regions.

The 16th century saw the Ottoman Empire flex its muscles and extend its influence from the Arabian peninsula to the African Red Sea coast. Under Sultan Suleiman I the Turks captured Massawa and nearby towns, sparking rebellions under the local ruler which were eventually put down to establish Ottoman dominance. Of course the neighbouring kingdom of Abyssinia, still keen to establish a foothold on the Red Sea, did not take this too lightly, and various campaigns were launched which saw them take, and then lose Massawa. The 16th century was a period of continual revolt and struggle between the Turks, Ethiopian kings, and local Eritrean forces before Ottoman power in the region was consolidated and the coastal region of Eritrea became the province of Habesh, ruled by Turkish overlords for several centuries. Eritrea was ruled by Beja pashas, put in place by the Sultan to administer his Red Sea territory. The coastal areas remained under Moslem domination, while the highlands, just that little bit further away from the administrative bases on the coast, retained their Christian Axumite heritage, with allegiance to Ethiopia. Eventually however power struggles within the Abyssinian royal court meant that it was not strong enough to retain its Eritrean provinces, which fell in the 18th century to the province of Tigray, an up and coming power rival within the region. Eritrea as a nation simply did not exist, carved up between various spheres of influence which waned and waxed frequently, its people subject to a number of different masters.

The 19th century saw the Ottoman empire hand over its Eritrean provinces to Egypt, ostensibly a vassal state of Constantinople but rapidly becoming a significant power base within the region. Having invaded Sudan, the Egyptian pasha pushed ever further southwards, building bases in northern Ethiopia and establishing Egyptian forces at Massawa after the Ottomans handed over control of the region. Although initially unable to extend their influence much beyond the coastal belt, by the second half of the century they were starting to push westwards and threaten Ethiopia, resulting in battles between Egyptian forces and Emperor Yohannes. Egypt was eventually defeated, but retreated only to its bases in Eritrea, still maintaining control. The Mahdist rebellion in Sudan, which Egypt claimed sovereignty over, led to peace being brokered between the two powers – Ethiopia would assist beleaguered Egyptian forces in return for access to Eritrea’s key port town Massawa.

It was around this time that the first Italian incursions began to be made into the region. Late in the day in seeking African possessions, and far behind the French and British, Italy felt that it too needed a port on the Red Sea to compete with Britain’s Aden and France’s Djibouti. In 1869, the port of Assab in Eritrea’s south was bought from a local ruler. Then, with the conflict raging between the Mahdists and Egypt (now a British protectorate), Britain encouraged Italy to take over Massawa, enraging Ethiopia which felt that it had been granted to them. This was the start of Italy’s colonial adventure on the Red Sea Coast. Gradually, Italian forces took more and more land, encroaching on the territories of Ethiopia and taking advantage of the Dervish forces attacking Ethiopia from the north and weakening the state. Eritrea at this time was not a pleasant place if you were Eritrean, Reports of widescale massacres, disappearances and summary executions plagued the nascent Italian colony, but were quickly hushed up. Resistance to the Italian occupation, even perceived resistance, became a very dangerous game as Italy sought to establish its hegemony on the region.

Meanwhile tensions with Ethiopia grew. In the last years of the 19th century, Italy began to take more and more lands which had traditionally fallen under the influence of the royal court. Matters came to a head at the Battle of Adua in 1894, an event which was to humiliate Italian forces immeasurably and put paid to their ideas, at least for a while, of colonizing Ethiopia. The Italian army suffered the worst defeat that a European army had ever suffered in Africa, its forces massacred and routed by a numerically superior, but technologically inferior, force. Peace was made with Italy’s Eritrea and boundaries established.

Italy put much effort into its colony in the first years of the 20th century, improving port facilities, building the railway and developing the town of Asmara into the architectural gem that it is today. Eritrea saw high levels of immigration, and Asmara’s population was made up of 50% Italians, many of whom fathered children with Eritrean women. However, for those in the know, Eritrea was considered to harbour one of the worst systems of racial discrimination anywhere. Under Italy’s fascist dictator Mussolini, the racial inferiority of Eritreans was stressed and embodied in law, and Eritreans were routinely treated as second class citizens on their own country.

The Second World War saw Italy’s fortunes in Africa fall. Defeated by British forces, with terrible battles taking place at towns like Keren, Italian forces surrendered at Asmara in 1941. For a time, Italy continued to administer Eritrea under British jurisdiction, and the system of apartheid pursued by Mussolini was disbanded. Eritrea remained under British control during and after the war while its fate was decided by a UN commission. After much dithering and indecision, the colony of Eritrea became part of a federation with Ethiopia – a situation which much suited the Ethiopian emperor Haile Selassie who was keen to gain access to the Red Sea.

By all accounts, the federation of the two countries was largely a farce, engineered by Haile Selassie to grab Eritrea outright, After an indecently short amount of time, the federation was dissolved and Eritrea became simply a province of Ethiopia. And so began a policy of outright occupation. Tigrinya and Arabic, the key languages of Eritrea, were replaced with the Ethiopian language Amharic, and peaceful protest about the loss of their country saw Eritreans brutalised by Haile Selassie’s forces.

The 1950’s saw the birth of Eritrean resistance movements, movements that were to dominate the identity of Eritreans for decades. The Eritrean Liberation Movement, and later the Eritrean Liberation Front, engaged in small battles with Ethiopian forces but were hampered by a lack of material support. Having spent so much time deliberating the future of Eritrea, foreign powers such as Britain and the United States ignored the struggle for freedom going on within the deserts and highlands of Eritrea. In an all too frequent example of Cold War realpolitik, the United States had allied itself with Ethiopia as a buffer against Communist influence on the Horn of Africa, and was not keen on doing anything that might upset that arrangement. However the resistance movements gained great strength from their popular appeal – there were few Eritreans who supported the Ethiopian occupation and many were willing to risk their lives to fight for the freedom of their country. Eritrean forces embarked on a war that would cost thousands of lives and last almost thirty years in their determination to establish independence. Denied much support from the outside world, the fighters as they became known gained a reputation for austerity, for making the most out of meagre resources and turning them with devastating effect on Ethiopian forces. Civilian contacts with strategic jobs would assist them by diverting shipments of medical equipment or arms, and enabled the various resistance movements to build themselves into a formidable force. Brutal crackdowns by Ethiopia simply added to the resentment and swelled the ranks of the fighters with new recruits eager to fight for the cause.

The communist coup in Ethiopia in the 1970s, and the subsequent military rule by the Derg, had led to much discontent within Ethiopia itself, but now propped up by the might of the Soviet Union, the government was able to secure enough arms and military technology to deal brutally and effectively with both Eritrean and Ethiopian resistance. Nevertheless the Eritrean resistance, which by the 1970s had unified under the name of the Eritrean People’s Liberation Movement (EPLF) was able to inflict some serious defeats on Ethiopian forces. The tide finally turned with the end of the Cold War and the demise of the Soviet Union. No longer was Mengistu, the Ethiopian ruler, able to count on such powerful support and in the face of increasingly fierce resistance he fled Ethiopia. Together with the Tigrayan People’s Liberation Front, an Ethiopian based resistance movement, the EPLF was able to push forwards to Addis Ababa and topple the remnants of the Derg in 1991.

Eritrea was granted its independence from Ethiopia in 1993, making it the 53rd and newest country in Africa. Mindful of the lack of help given to them by external powers during the struggle, Eritrea set about rebuilding its shattered society with minimal help from outside. This was a golden time for Eritrea – the struggle had been won and finally it was its own nation, a colony no more. However initially friendly relations with Ethiopia deteriorated, and in the late 1990s both nations were at war over a border dispute concerning the tiny and insignificant village of Badme, a war which has cost countless lives as each side fights to establish dominance over a few dusty buildings. The terms of a peace agreement were ambivalent enough to ensure that tensions continue to flare between the two nations periodically, sometimes erupting into battles. Eritrea has not yet seen the end of its long and exhausting struggle to establish itself on the world stage.

Eritrea’s history is turbulent and fascinating, a testament to the worst excesses of colonial rule and a shameful indifference from the outside world to small nations trying to seek their freedom. Travel to Eritrea and you will meet a people whose lives have been defined by the struggle. But you will also find an extremely welcoming and proud people, keen to talk and initiate you into the charms of this beautiful slice of Africa. Explore the colonial heritage on the spectacular Italian railway, winding through the hills and reconstructed after the struggle with huge effort. Wander through the streets of Massawa to explore the vestiges of Ottoman domination, with gracefully decaying buildings made from coral and wood. Discover the modernist and Art Deco architecture of Asmara, one of the most beautiful cities in all of Africa and with incongruous surprises around every corner. You will not find too many other travellers here, but those that you do all share the same thing – they have utterly fallen in love with this resilient and inspiring land.