Comoros Discovery

Notes

Essentials

Visas
Most nationals will require a visa to visit the Comoros. As there are very few Comorian Embassies or Consulates, a visa will in most cases be issued on arrival, for a cost of €65, which is valid for a stay of up to 45 days. Passports must have at least three month’s validity remaining from the date of arrival.

Airport Tax
Departure tax is generally included in the cost of your ticket.

Health and Immunisations
As with travel to most parts of Africa, we strongly recommend that you contact your doctor’s surgery or a specialist travel clinic for up-to-date information, advice and the necessary vaccinations. For a visit of less than one month, almost certainly you will be advised to have immunisations against the following: Diphtheria and Tetanus, Hepatitis A, Typhoid, Meningitis. Anti-malaria medication is also required and the use of a DEET-containing insect repellent is highly recommended.

Insurance

• What should my travel insurance policy cover?
• medical and health cover for an injury or sudden illness abroad
• 24 hour emergency service and assistance
• personal liability cover in case you’re sued for causing injury or damaging property
• lost and stolen possessions cover
• cancellation and curtailment (cutting short your trip) cover
• Extra cover for activities that are commonly excluded from standard policies, such as certain sports

The policy should cover the whole time that you are away.

Your policy may also have:

• personal accident cover
• personal accident cover

Common travel insurance policy exclusions

Always check the conditions and exclusions of your policy:

• most policies will not cover drink or drug-related incidents

Practical information

Local currency
The local currency is the Comoros Franc (KMF). For current exchange rates visit www.xe.com. Our advice is to preferably travel with Euros. You should also avoid taking large denomination notes such as €100 bills as these may be difficult to exchange.

Where currency can be exchanged
Exchange facilities will be available at most of the hotels included in this itinerary. Opportunities for changing money outside of the hotels will be limited – only Moroni has banks capable of changing foreign currency.

Credit cards and travellers cheques
There are no ATMs in the Comoros which accept international cards. However, a cash advance may be available over the counter at Moroni’s main bank using a visa card. You should check with your card issuer before travelling and assume that this is a back-up option only.

In addition travellers’ cheques credit cards may be accepted at some of the hotels featured in this itinerary, but the situation can change and we are unable to offer any guarantees. Our advice is to carry sufficient Euros cash.

Best time to go
The climate is marine tropical, with two seasons: hot and humid from November to April, and cool and dry the rest of the year. In fact, for a significant part of the year Comoros enjoys a near-perfect, balmy 25°C, with the scent of ylang-ylang, cloves, cinnamon and vanilla wafting gently in on the trade winds.

Main Language
The official languages are French, Arabic and Comorian, a blend of Arabic and Swahili. It should be noted that little English is spoken, except by your local guides and some (but not all) hotel staff.

Main Religion
Muslim (mostly Sunni) with Roman Catholic minority.

Food and drink
While on our tour in the Comoros you are likely to take most of your meals at the hotels. Comorian food blends African, Arab and European styles and uses a fair amount of spices. Coconut based dishes are quite common, and as you would expect, seafood is good and plentiful.

If you have any special dietary requirements you must notify us at the time of booking. While we will make every effort to cater for you, we cannot guarantee that this will be possible.

Most travellers will find the Comoros more expensive than some mainland African nations. However, costs are favourable compared to Europe. A 1L of bottled water will cost about €2 or an imported beer about €3. Eating at a hotel restaurant, main courses will start at around €7 to €8.

Transport
Our tour in the Comoros uses private vehicles – either 4wd vehicles or buses. Flights between the islands will be taken by scheduled aircraft of an international standard.

Local conditions
Travelling in the destinations that we visit requires a good deal of understanding that often standards simply won’t be as they are at home. While we aim to make your trip as comfortable as possible, please be aware that we are often visiting remote or less developed regions that may have little infrastructure. While we aim to make your trip run as smoothly as possible there may be times when we need to ask for your patience while we rectify any problems.

What to take with you

First Aid Kit
The first thing on your list should be a first aid kit. Whilst there is no undue cause for alarm, travellers are best advised to travel well-prepared: adequately immunized, with sufficient supplies of prescription drugs, along with a medical kit.

Clothing
When it comes to clothing it is usually recommended that lighter clothes are worn through the day, and warmer ones at night. A hat is also advised to be worn through the day to protect from the sun, along with at least one piece of waterproof clothing for any days that the weather may be wet or windy.

Footwear
Footwear is a main priority on this tour. Comfortable walking shoes/boots are recommended.

Luggage
Your luggage should not exceed 20kgs (44lbs). One large suitcase/rucksack, and one small hand luggage rucksack is acceptable.

Other
Suncream/sunblock is a must. Insect repellent, including a bite spray will also be useful to have.

If you will be using a camera which needs film, it is recommended that a supply is taken with you, as it is not always available in the Comoros Islands.

Fitness
If you intend to climb Mt Karthala you will need to have a fairly good level of fitness – the climb can take up to seven or eight hours.

Cultural and environmental guidelines

As an Islamic country the Comoros has a fairly conservative attitude towards dress and you should respect this when outside of the hotels. In the hotels and resorts though, attitudes are more relaxed.

You may come across beggars while on tour. Every traveller has different perspectives on this and ultimately the choice is up to you. Many sources recommend that you watch to see if local people give, and then follow their lead with genuine beggars. We do not recommend giving money, sweets, pens etc to children as this can encourage a begging mentality and can lead to children choosing to beg rather than go to school.

Haggling is a way of life in Africa when making many purchases, especially with tourist souvenirs. Usually, but not always, the vendor will start with a price that is higher than they are prepared to accept, and the buyer is expected to haggle. There are no hard and fast rules with this – some vendors may initially quote a vastly overinflated price, others may start with a price close to the true value, while others may just present you with one price and not be prepared to discuss it. Although many tourists may feel uncomfortable with this, it’s important to remember that this is best entered into in a relaxed manner. Once you have agreed upon a price, it is extremely bad form to then not pay this. Please also bear in mind that a small amount of money to you can be a relatively large amount for the vendor, and that it is not necessarily best practice to ‘beat the vendor down’ to the lowest possible price. Remember that they also have a living to make.

Please make sure that you take any rubbish back to the hotels with you where it can be properly disposed of – this includes cigarette butts as well.

Please do not buy any products made from endangered species – this is not sustainable and hastens the species’ decline

Photography
You should always ask permission before taking anyone's photograph and respect their decision if they say no. In more remote areas women and older people often do not want to be photographed. Some people may also ask for some money – sometimes a little, sometimes a lot - in return for a photo. Taking photos of military installations, state buildings, and airports can lead to problems with local authorities. If you are unsure about whether it is acceptable to take a photo, please ask your tour leader or guide.

Tipping
Tipping is common practise in Africa. If your local guide has been helpful then you could think about tipping. This amount can obviously be left to you.

When tipping a driver, a guide or hotel staff a few dollars will always be gratefully received.

Foreign Office Advice
Despite the country’s turbulent politics we believe that the Comoros is one of the safest destinations in Africa. We constantly monitor the advice posted by the British Foreign and Commonwealth Office (FCO). In particular we will always advise clients of any travel warnings. At the time of writing there are no travel warnings that apply to this tour.

Further Information

Public Holidays in Comoros:

7 Jan Ashoura.
18 Mar Anniversary of the Death of President Said Mohamed Cheikh. 
9 Mar Birth of the Prophet.
1 May Labour Day.
25 May Anniversary of the Organisation of African Unity.
29 May Anniversary of the Death of President Ali Soilih.
6 Jul Independence Day. 
26 Nov Anniversary of the Death of President Ahmed Abdallah. 
25 Dec Christmas Day.

Other holidays associated with Ramadan follow the lunar calendar and vary annually.

Dates are for guidance only and may vary year to year

Electrical Supply

Generally electrical supply is 220-240V AC (50 Hz) and use European two circular pin style plugs.

Recommended Reading

Madagascar and the Comoros – Lonely Planet Guide
Tom Parkinson

Last of the Pirates – the Search for Bob Denard
Samantha Weinberg

IMPORTANT NOTES – PLEASE READ

Please note that the information provided is correct at the time of writing but may change. It is intended as a guide only. Further information regarding vaccinations and travel health visit www.fitfortravel.scot.nhs.uk or contact your local healthcare provider.

In addition we strongly advise you to check the information and any travel advice provided by your government. For British citizens you should visit the Foreign Office website www.fco.gov.uk.

Furthermore, you should be aware that any travel warnings or advisories may affect the validity of your travel insurance. Therefore, at the time of booking your tour it is essential you check any restrictions on cover with your insurance provider.

Issue Date – 17/08/09

For possible changes to this dossier please visit www.undiscovered-destinations.com or call +44 (0)191 296 2674

Historical background

One of the forgotten nations of Africa, the Comoros Islands languish in tropical heat, sandwiched between Mozambique and their larger island cousin Madagascar. Few travellers make it here, ignoring their charms in favour of the more conventional players on the African travel scene. But those that take the trouble to explore these tiny islands enter a world in which tourism has had little influence, where people greet you as a guest, and you have the privilege of being part of an elite group of intrepid travellers discovering one of the hidden corners of the Indian Ocean. The streets of Moroni are an absolute delight to wander around, reminiscent of better known Stone Town on Zanzibar, while natural beauty abounds with spectacular beaches and imposing volcanoes. For those keen to discover a nation with a fascinating history, welcoming people and unique culture, the Comoros makes a compelling visit.

It is believed that the first inhabitants of the Comoros were from the faraway isles of Melanesia and Polynesia, arriving from thousands of miles away sometime in the 5th century. Little seems to remain of their heritage today, in contrast to neighbouring Madagascar. Sometime before the 14th century, Bantu groups from Mozambique settled in the islands, but the dominant influence on the Comoros comes from Arab traders who were making the journey down the east coast of Africa, spreading Islam. Arriving in the 16th century, many stayed on and built trading posts and mosques, introducing the Arab influenced style of architecture than can be found today. The islands were fragmented into a number of different sultanates – at one point Grand Comore, barely a hundred kilometers from north to south, was composed of twelve different sultanates each with their own tiny sphere of influence. In the 16th century Europeans began to make contact with the islands, notably the Portuguese, using them as a stopping point on their way up and down the coast of mainland Africa. Pirates from Madagascar were also making an impact, raiding Comorian settlements.

The European colonization of the Comoros began in 1841, when the sultan of Mayotte placed himself under French protection as a safeguard against pirates and slave traders. France began to covet the remainder of the islands in the archipelago – the British had established themselves at Zanzibar further north on the East African coast and in the typical rivalry of the day, France felt that it too needed a substantial base on the Indian Ocean. Through a mixture of diplomacy and brute force, France obtained first Moheli in 1886, then Anjouan and Grande Comore in 1912 – reasonably late in the day in terms of the ‘Scramble for Africa’. All islands became a French colony, administered from Madagascar, of which they were a dependent territory.

In contrast to the almost frantic way in which France granted independence to most of its African colonies in 1960, independence was not granted to the Comoros until the much later date of 1975. However not all islands desired independence – the island of Mayotte voted overwhelmingly to remain an overseas department of France, a situation which remains to this day and can be seen in the French influence which pervades the island.

After a brief period of calm, in 1976 Ali Solih ousted Ahmed Abdallah and took over as president of the Comoros, and so began a bizarre chapter in the islands’ history. Solih had no experience of running a country – he burned all government records, appointed a 15 year old to run the police department and after a soothsayer told him that he would be killed by a white man with a black dog, killed every black dog on the island. Ahmed Abdallah fled to Paris and contacted the well known French mercenary Bob Denard, asking that he return him to power. Denard assembled a group of mercenaries and in 1978 landed on the islands, killing Solih and parading his body through the streets, taking with him a black Alsatian in fulfilment of the prophecy. Abdallah rewarded the mercenaries with key positions in government and Denard assumed his role as the power behind the throne and de facto ruler of the country, settling in the Comoros.

During this time, South Africa used the Comoros as a base to monitor ANC training camps in Tanzania and the French used the islands to ship arms to the Renamo guerrillas in Mozambique. Numerous coup attempts during this time were put down with Denard’s foreign mercenaries, but in 1989, after Abdallah was shot – some say by Denard himself – the heat was turned up and international protests caused France to arrange Denard’s resignation.

After a brief period of retirement in France, in 1995 Denard assembled another group of mercenaries and sailed back to the Comoros, overthrowing President Djohar. France denounced the coup and sent 600 soldiers to retake the islands – Denard ordered his soldiers not to resist and the Comoros passed back to the leadership of Djohar.

In 1997, the islands of Anjouan and Moheli announced their secession from the Comoros, causing enormous concern on Grande Comore. Subsequent attempts to re-establish control over the islands were not entirely successful and today they enjoy a certain degree of autonomy, although they cannot be considered to be independent nations. Various coup attempts on the islands have seen them become closer to, and then break away from Grande Comore, but in 2002 they were formally reincorporated into the Union of the Comoros, with their own governments. In 2008 Grande Comore invaded Anjouan in an attempt to topple the separatist government of Mohamed Bacar who refused to cede power after an election – the island was quickly overrun and Anjouan came under more direct control from Grande Comore. In all, the post independence history of the Comoros has been turbulent, with more than 20 coup attempts since 1975.

Despite this, visitors to the Comoros find a friendly and overwhelmingly welcome people, surprised and pleased to see travellers coming to the islands. The beauty of travel to the Comoros is that like many of the destinations offered by Undiscovered Destinations, you really get the sense of breaking new ground when you set foot here. While other islands such as Zanzibar see huge numbers of tourists, and inevitably become influenced by some of the negative effects of tourism, the Comoros remains refreshingly devoid of these. With enchanting towns such as Moroni, the forested slopes of volcanoes such as Mt Karthala, and amazing marine life including whales, dolphins, dugongs and the prehistoric coelacanth, the Comoros should receive more visitors than it does. Visit these idyllic tropical islands before the rest of the world wakes up to their charms.