Yunnan - China's Secret Paradise

Notes

Essentials

Visas
Most nationals including UK, EU and US visitors require a visa for entry to China. These must be obtained in advance, and we recommend that you check with your nearest embassy for the most up to date details. Should a letter of invitation be required, we will be able to provide this.

Airport Tax
No departure tax currently applies.

Health and Immunisations
As with travel to most parts of Asia, we strongly recommend that you contact your doctor’s surgery or a specialist travel clinic for up-to-date information, advice and the necessary vaccinations. For a visit of less than one month, almost certainly you will be advised to have immunisations against the following: Diphtheria and Tetanus, Hepatitis A, Typhoid, Meningitis. The use of a DEET-containing insect repellent is highly recommended.

Insurance

• What should my travel insurance policy cover?
• medical and health cover for an injury or sudden illness abroad
• 24 hour emergency service and assistance
• personal liability cover in case you’re sued for causing injury or damaging property
• lost and stolen possessions cover
• cancellation and curtailment (cutting short your trip) cover
• Extra cover for activities that are commonly excluded from standard policies, such as certain sports

The policy should cover the whole time that you are away.

Your policy may also have:

• personal accident cover
• legal expenses cover

Common travel insurance policy exclusions
Always check the conditions and exclusions of your policy:

• most policies will not cover drink or drug-related incidents

You must take reasonable care of your possessions or your policy will not cover you.

Practical information

Local Currency
The currency is the yuan. For current exchange rates visit www.xe.com.

Where currency can be exchanged
Currency can be exchanged at a number of places. The Bank of China is currently the only bank authorised to exchange foreign currency and you will find branches in most major towns. Some hotels can also exchange money, and there are also ATMs in most large towns (although these can be unreliable). Beijing airport is a convenient place to exchange money when you begin your tour. Please note that it is only possible to convert excess yuan back into foreign currency upon production of your original exchange documents.

Credit cards and travellers cheques
Traveller’s cheques actually attract a better rate than cash in China, so you may wish to consider bringing some of these. Credit and debit cards are not however widely accepted, although useful for drawing money from ATMs.

Best time to go
The best time to visit the far west of China is during the spring months of April, May and early June, and September to October. Outside of these times it can either be bitterly cold or fiercely hot, a result of the region’s remoteness from the coast. In Yunnan the diversity of topography means that while one area might be warm and dry, another area not too far away can be cold and wet at the same time. However the best time to visit the region is generally accepted to be between May and November when temperatures are warmest – although Yunnan gets a lot of rainfall during this time.

Main Language
China’s main language is Mandarin, but with so many different ethnic groups the country contains a multitude of languages. In the western Xinjiang region the Uighur people have their own language, which is related to other Central Asian languages. Yunnan’s population is made up of an incredible amount of different ethnic groups, with an accompanying diversity of indigenous languages.

Main Religion
China is home to three main belief systems – Confucianism, Taoism and Buddhism. However in Xinjiang the local religion is Islam, while Islam and animist traditions also exist in Yunnan.

Food and drink
China’s food needs little introduction, and is famous throughout the world. We recommend that you try as many different local dishes as you can – the food here is generally more varied, and tastier, than you would find in Chinese restaurants back home. The Chinese are known for their penchant for eating all sorts of things that most of us would shy away from, and it’s not hard to find pig’s ears and duck’s tongues on menus. Noodles and soups are popular, as are stir fries and various forms of casseroles. Breakfasts are more savoury than sweet, and often contain a selection of dishes you would not expect so early in the day. Tea is of course the national drink. Beer is inexpensive and widely available, although Chinese wine not as much.

If you have any special dietary requirements you must notify us at the time of booking. While we will make every effort to cater for you, we cannot guarantee that this will be possible.

Please note that a lot of food is cooked in nut oil. If you have a nut allergy, avoiding this food would be incredibly difficult.

China is generally very inexpensive for eating. A small meal will cost in the region of $2-5, while something more substantial at a restaurant will cost slightly more. Most people are surprised at how good value the food is. A bottle of water will cost around 50 cents, around the same as a bottle of beer.

Transport
Our tour in China will either use private cars or private buses.

Flights included in your tour are made with one of the regional Chinese airlines. Almost all of these flights are on Boeing or Airbus planes. A light snack and drinks are usually included. In the event of flight delays or cancellations we will attempt to make alternative arrangements so as to keep the tour operating as close to the original itinerary as possible.

Our tour to Yunnan will use an overnight sleeper train. This may be of the hard sleeper variety which has six berths to an open compartment, or a soft sleeper, which has two berths to a lockable compartment.

Local conditions
Travelling in the destinations that we visit requires a good deal of understanding that often standards simply won’t be as they are at home. While we aim to make your trip as comfortable as possible, please be aware that we are often visiting remote or less developed regions that may have little infrastructure. While we aim to make your trip run as smoothly as possible there may be times when we need to ask for your patience while we rectify any problems.

What to take with you

First Aid Kit
The first thing on your list should be a first aid kit. Whilst there is no undue cause for alarm, travellers are best advised to travel well-prepared: adequately immunized, with sufficient supplies of prescription drugs, along with a medical kit.

Clothing
When it comes to clothing it is usually recommended that lighter clothes are worn through the day, and warmer ones at night. A hat is also advised to be worn through the day to protect from the sun, along with at least one piece of waterproof clothing for any days that the weather may be wet or windy.

You should bear in mind that as a Moslem region of China, Xinjiang has conservative attitudes towards dress. Women, and also to a certain extent men, will find that the way they dress will often determine the degree of respect they receive from both men and women.

Sleeping bag
You do not need to bring a sleeping bag on our tours in China tour – all mats, sleeping bags and tents will be provided (for the Forgotten Cities of the Silk Road tour).

Footwear
Footwear is a main priority on this tour. Comfortable walking shoes/boots are recommended.

Luggage
Your luggage should not exceed 20kgs (44lbs). One large suitcase/rucksack, and one small hand luggage rucksack is acceptable.

Other
Suncream/sunblock is a must. Insect repellent, including a bite spray will also be useful to have. As our Silk Road tour in China involves camping, a torch (flashlight) is essential.

Fitness
Our tours in China do not require any special degree of fitness but you will find them more enjoyable if you are reasonably fit.

Cultural and environmental guidelines
While camping, toilet facilities will be limited. When you need to answer the call of nature in the desert, please make sure that you burn your toilet paper. Do not bury it – the aridity of the desert air means that it will not decompose for a very long time.

Please do not touch any of the murals or frescoes in Buddhist sites- this can lead to their gradual degradation.

You may come across beggars while on tour in China. Every traveller has different perspectives on this and ultimately the choice is up to you. Many sources recommend that you watch to see if local people give, and then follow their lead with genuine beggars. We do not recommend giving money, sweets, pens etc to children as this can encourage a begging mentality and can lead to children choosing to beg rather than go to school.

Haggling is a way of life in China when making many purchases, especially with tourist souvenirs. Usually, but not always, the vendor will start with a price that is higher than they are prepared to accept, and the buyer is expected to haggle. There are no hard and fast rules with this – some vendors may initially quote a vastly overinflated price, others may start with a price close to the true value, while others may just present you with one price and not be prepared to discuss it. Although many tourists may feel uncomfortable with this, it’s important to remember that this is best entered into in a relaxed manner. Once you have agreed upon a price, it is extremely bad form to then not pay this. Please also bear in mind that a small amount of money to you can be a relatively large amount for the vendor, and that it is not necessarily best practice to ‘beat the vendor down’ to the lowest possible price. Remember that they also have a living to make.

Please make sure that you take any rubbish back to the hotels with you where it can be properly disposed of – this includes cigarette butts as well.

Please do not buy any products made from endangered species – this is not sustainable and hastens the species’ decline.

Photography
You should always ask permission before taking anyone's photograph and respect their decision if they say no. In more remote areas women and older people often do not want to be photographed. Some people may also ask for some money – sometimes a little, sometimes a lot - in return for a photo. Taking photos of military installations, state buildings, and airports can lead to problems with local authorities. If you are unsure about whether it is acceptable to take a photo, please ask your tour leader or guide.

Tipping
Tipping is common practise in China. If your local guide has been helpful then you could think about tipping. This amount can obviously be left to you. When tipping a driver, a guide or hotel staff a few dollars will always be gratefully received.

Foreign Office Advice
We constantly monitor the advice posted by the British Foreign and Commonwealth Office (FCO). In particular we will always advise clients of any travel warnings. At present there are no warnings against travel to the regions of China that we visit. Please feel free to contact us should you have any specific concerns or would like to know in detail what measures are being taken to ensure visits remain trouble free and without incident.

It should be noted that this information applies to British citizens. Other nationals are asked to check the current position of their respective government.

Further Information

Public Holidays in China:

1 Jan New Year’s Day
Jan/Feb Chinese New Year
8 Mar Women’s Day
1 May Labour Day
1 June Children’s Day
1 July Communist Party Day
1 Aug Army Day
1 Oct National Day

Dates are for guidance only and may vary year to year

Electrical Supply
Plug sockets come in a number of different designs – two pinned, like Europe, three pinned angled like Australia and three pronged round. We recommend that you buy a multi-adapter.

Recommended Reading

China – The Rough Guide
David Leffman and Simon Lewis

China: Yunnan Province – The Bradt Guide
Stephen Mansfield

Mao – The Unknown Story
Jung Chang and Jon Halliday

Red Dust
Ma Xian

Wild West China: The Taming of Xinjiang
Christian Tyler

Foreign Devils on the Silk Road
Peter Hopkirk

Behind the Wall
Colin Thubron

IMPORTANT NOTES – PLEASE READ

Please note that the information provided is correct at the time of writing but may change. It is intended as a guide only. Further information regarding vaccinations and travel health visit www.fitfortravel.scot.nhs.uk or contact your local healthcare provider.

In addition we strongly advise you to check the information and any travel advice provided by your government. For British citizens you should visit the Foreign Office website www.fco.gov.uk.

Furthermore, you should be aware that any travel warnings or advisories may affect the validity of your travel insurance. Therefore, at the time of booking your tour it is essential you check any restrictions on cover with your insurance provider.

Issue Date – 27/07/09. For possible changes to this dossier please visit www.undiscovered-destinations.com or call +44 (0)191 296 2674

Historical Background

China’s west is a vast, remote land, large enough to comfortably many smaller nations into it and far enough from Beijing to retain its own colourful culture and traditions. Pushed up against Central Asia and Mongolia, it has far more in common with these states than it does with mainstream China and so offers a glimpse of a very different side of this enormous nation. With an intriguing history ranging from ancient Buddhist cities to Moslem states to local warlords, a journey here is a visit to a largely ignored region where few travellers still set foot. Its deserts are vast and forbidding, legendary places that have swallowed unfortunate travellers and even large cities, now known only by the fragments uncovered by intrepid archaeologists. This was always a mysterious land, where rival empires played dangerous games for regional dominance, a land that has absorbed a diverse array of cultures, at the frontiers of different civilisations and with a cultural heritage that is surprising, enchanting and fascinating. This is China’s last frontier, with superb opportunities to leave the tourist trail behind and make your own adventure.

China’s western region sits at the hub of the old Silk Road, never one road as such but a conglomeration of different routes taking silk and other goods from China to Central Asia and beyond to the Middle East and Eastern Europe. The first we really know of the region comes from accounts by a Chinese traveller, Chang Ch’ien, sent out to explore the west by the Han Emperor Wu-Ti in the 2nd century BC. At the time, China was threatened by another group, the Hsiung-Nu, thought perhaps to be the Huns that were to devastate Europe some centuries later. The emperor had heard that they had recently defeated another group, the Yueh-Chih, who were keen to have their revenge but awaited the appearance of an ally to assist them. Setting out with a party of a hundred men, he was captured by the Hsiung-Nu, spent time as their ‘guest’ and eventually escaped to make contact with the Yueh-Chih. By now the Yueh-Chih had become a powerful state and were uninterested in upsetting the balance, and so Chang Ch’ien returned home empty-handed, but with a knowledge of the lands to the west that the Chinese had been unaware of previously.

Stimulated by the possibilities of trade, the Chinese began to send goods to the west, where they were traded for ivory, gold and previous stones from the western world. As a result of this, trading stations grew into towns, then into cities, growing rich from their position as middlemen. Buddhist pilgrims also took advantage of newly established routes, travelling from the Buddhist kingdom of Gandhara, now in present-day Pakistan, across high mountain passes and onwards to the cities of the Silk Road and spreading their faith. Excavations of sites in the Taklamakan Desert have found evidence of developed Buddhist cities and monasteries containing artistic and cultural treasures. The northern cities of the Silk Road such as Hami and Turpan were taken over by the Chinese, wresting them from the Hsiung-Nu. The Han dynasty however declined in the 3rd century, with the cities of the Silk Road falling under the rule of the Hsiung-Nu and other, smaller dynasties. Buddhism continued to flourish, with large temples and monasteries built, sometimes into caves, such as the Mogao Caves near Dunhuang.

In the 5th century Turkic invaders from the west established dominance over western China, incorporating it into a vast empire that stretched from the Aral Sea to Lake Baikal in Siberia. Several campaigns by the Chinese to reassert their dominance finally ended in success in the early 7th century under the Tang dynasty. Under the Tang, trade flourished and cultural interchange accompanied it, with traders from a number of different religions settling in Silk Road cities. Buddhism continued to be widespread, but the effort of maintaining control over far flung provinces proved to be too much for the Tang. The region was invaded by Arab armies spreading Islam, and by Tibetans from the south, resulting in widespread civil war until the Tang regained control in the 8th century with the assistance of Uighur Turks from Mongolia. The Uighurs became a powerful force in their own right, attacking Tibet, receiving tribute from China and converting to Manichaeism, but were themselves defeated by Kyrgyz horsemen who beheaded their leader and destroyed Uighur cities a century later. The Uighur empire dissolved into a number of different city states and small kingdoms, some converting to Islam while others remained either Buddhist or Manichaeist.

The 13th century saw the ascendance to power of Genghis Khan, one of the greatest military leaders that the world has ever seen, who united the Mongol tribes into a powerful army set on conquest. Western China fell under Mongol domination, ruled as a separate khanate known as the Chagatai khanate. It was around this time that Buddhism began to fall into a swift decline, as Islam made more and more inroads. Monasteries were either destroyed or allowed to fall into disrepair, ending centuries of Buddhist dominance in the region. In addition to this, climatic changes over the years had led to many towns being eventually swallowed by the desert, leaving little left but ruins for treasure hunters to seek out in years to come.

The decline in Mongol power from the 14th century onwards saw western China fragment into a number of different khanates – the Chagatai khanate was succeeded by Moghulistan, which was ruled by tribal chiefs each with control over particular areas. Moghulistan itself split into two in the 15th century, forming the state of Yarkand as a separate entity from the mainly nomadic remainder of Moghulistan. This period had been characterised by internal dissent with rulers of different cities rebelling against central control, declaring independence and refusing to pay taxes, but Yarkand managed to unify some of the various states and establish control, although limited in extent.

Yarkand was replaced by the Djungars, a group from Mongolia who entered the region as an ally of one of the many different groups that were in dispute with each other. They in turn were defeated by the Manchu Qing empire, which had come out of north east China to become a powerful force and assert dominance over the region. The Qing began to settle Chinese immigrants in the region and build garrisons as a way of making the territory easier to control. This didn’t always go well with local inhabitants, who feared that the widescale settlement of Chinese would eventually swamp them – a fear that is echoed today in the region. By the 19th century a series of rebellions broke out across the province, fuelled by Islamic militancy as a reaction to discrimination against Moslems.

Under the rule of Yakub Beg, Kashgaria became an independent state in 1865 with territory from Kashgar in the east to Hami in the west. During his brief reign, Beg played off British and Russian officials with designs on the region – this was the time of the ‘Great Game’, when the two rival empires were competing for control of Central Asia. Kashgaria did not last long however, and was re-incorporated into the Qing Empire twelve years later.

The dissolution of the Qing Empire in 1911 led to a period of widespread chaos within China. Xinjiang was ruled by warlords with the help of the newly created Soviet Union, with the renowned Ma Hu-Shan declaring an independent state with its capital at Khotan, until the region eventually fell to the communist armies of Mao Zedong in 1949 and was being formally incorporated into the People’s Republic of China. Things have not always been easy for China’s remotest province since then – calls for independence for Xinjiang and its Uighur inhabitants are not looked upon favourably by the Chinese authorities and increased Han settlement means that its cities are starting to lose their character. However, Xinjiang has a thriving local culture that cannot easily be extinguished, drawing on centuries of being at the edge of China and extensive links with Central Asian nations. It is a region that still has many secrets to give up, of treasures lost under the desert sands, of remnants of long extinct civilisations. Out in the mountains, desert and steppe, nomadic families are forging an existence for themselves much as they have done for millennia. And in the cities, the call to prayer still rings out over the rooftops, over streets where merchants ply their wares, over markets where traders who have travelled for hundreds of miles converge to sell their livestock. Once the most feared and difficult region of the Silk Road, with its snowy mountains and baking deserts, the far west of China is now more accessible than it has ever been. This is one of the most - perhaps the most – exciting region of China to explore, made even more special by the knowledge that until relatively recently, very few westerners had ever managed to penetrate it. Travel here can be long, it can be difficult, but it is ultimately rewarding and those that visit feel that any inconveniences pale into insignificance in comparison with the rewards to be earned.