Georgia and Armenia - Caucasus Discovery

Notes

Essentials

Visas
UK, EU and US visitors do not require a visa for entry to Georgia, but do require one for Armenia. This is however currently obtainable upon arrival. However this can change and therefore we recommend that you check with your nearest embassy for the most up to date details.

Airport Tax
There is a departure tax upon leaving Yerevan’s Zvartnots Airport of 10,000 AMD (about €25), payable in local currency.

Health and Immunisations
There are no compulsory vaccinations required for travel to Georgia or Armenia. However we recommend that you speak with your doctor for the most up to date advice regarding any vaccinations that may be recommended.

Insurance

• What should my travel insurance policy cover?
• medical and health cover for an injury or sudden illness abroad
• 24 hour emergency service and assistance
• personal liability cover in case you’re sued for causing injury or damaging property
• lost and stolen possessions cover
• cancellation and curtailment (cutting short your trip) cover
• Extra cover for activities that are commonly excluded from standard policies, such as certain sports

The policy should cover the whole time that you are away.

Your policy may also have:

• personal accident cover
• legal expenses cover

Common travel insurance policy exclusions
Always check the conditions and exclusions of your policy:
most policies will not cover drink or drug-related incidents

You must take reasonable care of your possessions or your
policy will not cover you.

Practical information

Local Currency
The local currencies in Georgia and Armenia are as follows:

Georgia – Lari (GEL)
Armenia – Dram (AMD)

For current exchange rates visit www.xe.com. The preferred foreign currency for exchange purposes is the US dollar – it is possible to exchange sterling and Euros in Tbilisi and Yerevan but is generally much more difficult to do so, especially with pound sterling.

Where currency can be exchanged
There are banks and bureaux de change in the larger towns and cities throughout Georgia and Armenia. In smaller towns and villages it is generally not possible to change money.

Credit cards and travellers cheques
Cashing travellers’ cheques is generally possible but fewer places will do so, and the rates tend to be poorer. Yerevan and Tbilisi are well equipped with ATMs for obtaining money. Credit cards are not widely accepted in Georgia and Armenia.

Best time to go
Generally speaking, the best time to visit the region is between May and October. It can get very hot in the summer but this is the only time that some of the passes in the High Caucasus are open (the temperature in the mountains is cooler anyway).

Main Language
Both Georgia and Armenia have their own distinct languages, each with its own alphabet. In the High Caucasus region of Georgia a number of dialects still exist, sometimes differing from village to village.

Main Religion
The principal religion is Orthodox Christian, although both countries follow slightly different versions of the faith.

Food and drink
The food of the region is heavily imbued with Turkish and Persian influences. Meals typically consist of a number of small dishes, with meat and cheeses making frequent appearances. Lamb is the most popular meat and is often served in some form of stew. Barbecued meat is also very popular, especially as a street snack.

Meals tend to be rather elaborate affairs with many courses being brought out. Toasting is very important in Georgia and can go on for a considerable amount of time.

The wines in this area tend to be very good, if rather unknown in the west, and in local homes many people brew and store their own, which they will undoubtedly want to share with you. Other drinks include beer and the fiery spirit known as chacha – popular for toasting but rather lethal.

If you have any special dietary requirements you must notify us at the time of booking. While we will make every effort to cater for you, we cannot guarantee that this will be possible.

Georgia tends to be more expensive than Armenia for meals and drinks. A moderate meal will cost you $3-7

in Armenia and $8-15 in Georgia, while a three course meal will cost $7-15 (Armenia) and $15-20 (Georgia). A bottle of wine will set you back about $3-7 depending on where you are.

Transport
Our tour in Georgia and Armenia will use minibuses and / or 4wd vehicles. These tend to be Russian Ladas – forget any prejudices you might have as they handle the terrain very well.

What to take with you

First Aid Kit
The first thing on your list should be a first aid kit. Whilst there is no undue cause for alarm, travellers are best advised to travel well-prepared: adequately immunized, with sufficient supplies of prescription drugs, along with a medical kit.

Clothing
When it comes to clothing it is usually recommended that lighter clothes are worn through the day, and warmer ones at night. A hat is also advised to be worn through the day to protect from the sun, along with at least one piece of waterproof clothing for any days that the weather may be wet or windy. Please note that it can get quite cool in the mountains in the evening.

Footwear
Footwear is a main priority on this tour. Comfortable walking shoes/boots are recommended.

Luggage
Your luggage should not exceed 20kgs (44lbs). One large suitcase/rucksack, and one small hand luggage rucksack is acceptable.

Other
Suncream/sunblock is a must. Insect repellent, including a bite spray will also be useful to have.

Fitness
This tour does not require any special degree of fitness but you will find it more enjoyable if you are reasonably fit.

Cultural and environmental guidelines
You should ensure that you do not leave any litter behind in the national parks, monuments and mountains – even though you may see local people doing so.

You may come across beggars while on tour. Every traveller has different perspectives on this and ultimately the choice is up to you. Many sources recommend that you watch to see if local people give, and then follow their lead with genuine beggars. We do not recommend giving money, sweets, pens etc to children as this can encourage a begging mentality and can lead to children choosing to beg rather than go to school.

Photography
You should always ask permission before taking anyone's photograph and respect their decision if they say no. In more remote areas women and older people often do not want to be photographed. Some people may also ask for some money – sometimes a little, sometimes a lot - in return for a photo. Taking photos of military installations, state buildings, and airports can lead to problems with local authorities. If you are unsure about whether it is acceptable to take a photo, please ask your tour leader or guide.

Tipping
Tipping is commonly recognised as a way of rewarding guides and drivers for good service. If you are happy with your guide and driver, please consider leaving a tip for them.

Waiters and bar staff in the region are generally low paid and it is common practice to leave a small tip – around 10% of the bill.

Foreign Office Advice
We constantly monitor the advice posted by the British Foreign and Commonwealth Office (FCO). In particular we will always advise clients of any travel warnings. At present there are no warnings against travel to the areas of Georgia and Armenia that we visit. Please feel free to contact us should you have any specific concerns or would like to know in detail what measures are being taken to ensure visits remain trouble free and without incident.

It should be noted that this information applies to British citizens. Other nationals are asked to check the current position of their respective government.

Further Information

Public Holidays in Georgia:

1 Jan New Year
7 Jan Orthodox Christmas
19 Jan Epiphany
3 March Mother’s Day
9 Apr Remembrance Day
26 May Independence Day
28 Aug Assumption
23 Nov St George’s Day

Public Holidays in Armenia:

1 Jan New Year
6 Jan Orthodox Christmas
7 Apr Mother’s Day
24 Apr Genocide Memorial Day
9 May Victory Day
28 May Republic Day
5 Jul Constitution Day
21 Sep Independence Day

Other holidays such as those associated with Easter vary annually.

Dates are for guidance only and may vary year to year

Electrical Supply
Electrical supply is 220V/50 Hz and plugs have two round pins.

Recommended Reading

Armenia with Nagorno Karabagh – The Bradt Guide
Nicholas Holding

Georgia with Armenia – The Bradt Guide
Tim Burford

Bread and Ashes: A Walk through the Mountains of Georgia
Tony Anderson

Georgia: In the Mountains of Poetry
Peter Nasmyth

A Shameful Act: The Armenian Genocide and the Question of Turkish Responsibility
Taner Akcam

IMPORTANT NOTES – PLEASE READ

Please note that the information provided is correct at the time of writing but may change. It is intended as a guide only. Further information regarding vaccinations and travel health visit www.fitfortravel.scot.nhs.uk or contact your local healthcare provider.

In addition we strongly advise you to check the information and any travel advice provided by your government. For British citizens you should visit the Foreign Office website www.fco.gov.uk.

Furthermore, you should be aware that any travel warnings or advisories may affect the validity of your travel insurance. Therefore, at the time of booking your tour it is essential you check any restrictions on cover with your insurance provider.

Issue Date – 20/07/09
For possible changes to this dossier please visit www.undiscovered-destinations.com or call +44 (0)191 296 2674

Historical Background

It is a wonder that the small Caucasian states of Georgia and Armenia exist. Sandwiched between the once powerful empires of Russia, Turkey and Persia, they have seen more than their fair share of invasions and occupation, but have managed to retain separate and distinct cultures of their own in the face of almost overwhelming odds. Not quite Europe, but not quite Asia, Georgia and Armenia occupy a place on the fringes of both. Dotted with fantastic architecture, breathtaking scenery and vibrant traditions, neither country has emerged from the Soviet Union unscathed. But scratch beneath the surface and you will experience an engaging culture with superlative hospitality and fascinating traditions that seem out of place in this largely forgotten corner of the world. Georgia and Armenia deserve more visitors than they receive, but for now only a few make the journey to this enchanting land of mountains, age old churches and ancient villages. Join them.

Georgia

Both countries have been settled for many hundreds of thousands of years, but detailed knowledge of the civilisations that existed here only really dates back to around the first millennium BC. Georgia’s big clam to fame is that it was once the ‘Land of the Golden Fleece’, immortalised in the epic story of Jason and the Argonauts and taking the form of the kingdom of Colchis, which roughly corresponds to the west of modern day Georgia. Colchis became an important trading power in the eastern Black Sea region, with merchants from other states such as Greece establishing small bases there. The latter half of the millennium however saw much turmoil, Colchis and the neighbouring Georgian kingdom of Kartli suffering from their geographical position and fighting off invasions from the Persian and Median empires, as well as Rome, Armenia and the armies of Alexander the Great. Armenia’s ally, Mithridate of Pontus, eventually succeeded in occupying the kingdom of Colchis, incorporating it into his own kingdom in the 1st century BC. This was not to last long however – expansionist Rome, rival to the Armenian empire, invaded later that century. Colchis became a far flung province of the Roman Empire, while Kartli came under Persian dominance.

In the first half of the 4th century AD, Georgia became the second country in the world to adopt Christianity as its official state religion after King Mirian was converted by St Nino, a slave from the Cappadocia region of Turkey. By the middle of that century, Georgia came under Persian dominance, but this was followed two hundred years later by the Byzantine Empire who retained power until Arab armies, aggressive in converting the surrounding region to Islam, stormed through the region and gained control. In the 9th century, Byzantine influence reasserted itself and much of Georgia became a de facto province. The history of Georgia during the first millennium is one of constant invasion and occupation, ascendant and declining powers within the area fighting each other to gain control of this strategic region. In the 11th century Georgia saw itself invaded by the Seljuk Turks who established dominance over the country,

The ‘golden age’ of Georgia emerged in the 12th century with the rise to power of David IV, known as King David the Builder. David unified Georgia, organising a resistance to drive the Turks out of the country and establishing a capital at Tbilisi, as well as subjugating the northern tribes in the Caucasus. His granddaughter, Queen Tamar, strengthened the Georgian state, driving off further invasions by the Turks and expanding its territory as far south as northern Persia. The collapse of the Byzantine Empire to the forces of Islam in the 13th century led to Georgia becoming the most powerful Christian state in the region, and during this period the arts, literature and architecture flourished like never before. Both King David and Queen Tamar are very much revered in Georgia today and seen as its greatest historical rulers.

This was not to last however, as the ‘golden horde’ of Mongols sweeping out of Central Asia laid waste to the region, conquering Georgia and making it little more than a client state. Georgia fell into disarray and rulers in the provinces asserted their independence. The Christian state of Georgia became isolated, surrounded by Moslem powers. Ottoman and Persian empires vied for dominance in the region, often with devastating effects as thousands were killed or deported. By the 17th century Georgia had been utterly devastated by continuous warfare and its economy was in ruins.

By the eighteenth century a new power was emerging onto the political scene, the colossus of Imperial Russia to the north. Sharing a faith, King Erekle turned to them for help in resisting domination by the Moslem Persians and Ottomans. Russia sent meagre forces although did manage to drive off Turkish invaders at one point, only to abandon Georgia later on. Persian forces under Shah Aga Mohamed Khan moved in, razing Tbilisi to the ground and massacring thousands of Georgian citizens. Under the auspices of protection, Russia annexed Georgia in the early 19th century, with many of its noblemen preferring loss of sovereignty to an uncertain future waging war against Turks and Persians. This was a time of rapid Russian expansion – Russian armies waged bitter wars with rebellious tribes in the north Caucasus, including a decades long guerrilla conflict waged by the infamous leader Imam Shamyl of Dagestan. Russia won territory from the Persians and forced the Ottoman Empire to renounce claims to the region, effectively turning the Caucasus into a province, and sparking great concern in Britain, which was concerned about the Tsar’s designs on its imperial possessions in the east, most of all India. Under General Tsitsianov, a road was built through the High Caucasus Mountains to Tbilisi, passing through the lands of hostile tribes and dealing with any resistance brutally. This was the time of the ‘great game’ when Russia and Britain manoeuvred secretly against each other, Russia keen to seize the routes towards India and Britain desperate to stop them gaining control of the jewel in its imperial crown. Such moves alarmed them greatly.

Under Russia, Tbilisi (known as Tiflis) was an oasis of peace compared the troublesome provinces to the north, including Chechnya and Circassia, and the uneasy tension with Turkey and Persia to the south. However ordinary Georgians saw little improvement in their day to day lives who continued under a feudal system until the late 19th century, when serfdom was finally abolished.

The Russian empire however was coming under increasing pressure, its citizens demanding reforms, better living conditions and an abolition of the monarchy. This of course culminated in 1917 with the Bolshevik Revolution. Georgia and other provinces took advantage of the vicious civil war in Russia by declaring their independence. Georgia first formed part of the state of Transcaucasia, which also included Armenia and Azerbaijan, but soon broke away and declared itself fully independent. This was a huge time of flux within the former territories of the Russian empire, with Bolshevik and Menshevik factions fighting against each other and of course White Russians still loyal to the old system. In 1921, Georgia was invaded by the Red Army who seized control of Tbilisi and reinstated Russian rule, albeit under a different political system. Georgia was incorporated within the Transcaucasian Soviet Federal Socialist Republic, again with Armenia and Azerbaijan, and certain of its territories were ceded to Turkey, a situation which remains today.

The dissolution of the Soviet Union in 1991 saw Georgia regain its independence after almost two hundred years. Its first president, Zviad Gamsakhurdia, lasted just six months before being ousted in a violent coup which had repercussions throughout the country, at the end of which the old Communist and Georgian Edvard Shevardnadze took power. The 1990s were a turbulent decade for Georgia. The north western province of Abkhazia was the scene of much conflict as Abkhaz separatists sought to carve out a separate state, aided according to many sources by Russia. Tensions there forced almost the entire ethnic Georgian population to flee, becoming refugees in cities such as Tbilisi. Adjara in the south west became virtually the private property of local strongman Aslan Abashidze. South Ossetia suffered from ethnic tension and mass evacuations. Although Adjara returned to the control of Tbilisi in the 21st century, both Abkhazia and South Ossetia remain breakaway provinces today, with periodic flare-ups that continue to cost lives. The war in Chechnya caused mutual suspicion and distrust between Russia and Georgia, Russia accusing Georgia of harbouring militants in its Pankisi Gorge and launching covert military operations there.

In 2004 the young reformist Mikhail Saakashvili won power from Shevardnadze, ushering in what many see as a new era for Georgia. Much to Russia’s dismay, Georgia’s attention is turned towards the west, a cause of continuing tension between the small country and its colossal neighbour. With the exception of its two separatist provinces, Georgia today has largely recovered from a traumatic time in the 1990s. Travel here is not always easy – although a small nation, roads can be incredibly bad and many areas are shut off by snowfall for many months of the year. Tbilisi, although endowed with some fascinating architecture, still bears many scars of its time under Soviet occupation. But in spite of all the troubles that the Georgian people have faced, they remain as ever truly hospitable and welcoming, with strong traditions that have survived the numerous armies that have laid waste to their lands. Go into the mountains and you will find villages without electricity still adhering to pagan traditions, stone watchtowers, ancient churches and a vast array of different dialects, often differing from one village to the next. Sit at a Georgian table and make new friends as you learn the quintessential Georgian ritual of the toast, accompanied by embarrassing amounts of excellent home cooked food. Explore ancient churches that still hold immense significance today. Georgia is a country that will surprise you, enchant you and mesmerise you.

Armenia

In many ways the history of Armenia is intertwined with that of Georgia, with a number of similarities. However in the 1st millennium BC, Armenia was the site of the empire of Urartu, which encompassed much of present day Turkey and with a capital at Van. A developed and warlike civilisation, Urartu was characterised by many defensive forts throughout the territory, with good roads linking its many cities. Yerevan, the present day capital was established in the 8th century BC. Continued expansion led to war with a neighbouring power, the Assyrians, who were able to inflict a series of defeats upon the kingdom, weakening it considerably. Urartu disappeared sometime in the 6th century BC, with Achaemenid Persia assuming control of the region. This area was the subject of many competing powers at this time, but the ascendancy of Alexander the Great pushed Persia from the region and Armenia became a province of his expanding empire. Under Alexander, Armenia was ruled by Persian vassal rulers and Armenia was granted a certain degree of autonomy. With the rapid dissolution of Alexander’s empire following his death at an early age, Armenia became part of the Seleucid Empire however real power remained in the hands of its kings, the Orontid dynasty until that in turn was usurped in the 2nd century BC. Under the Artaxid dynasty, Armenia started to expand its borders further, regaining some of the territory lost after the demise of Urartu. Extending its rule to incorporate parts of the Caucasus, Armenia grew to become one of the most powerful states in the area once more. This however brought it into conflict with Rome, resulting in a war which Armenia lost. Although it was allowed to retain its sovereignty, territory was lost and its kings were appointed by Rome.

Around the 1st century BC and for three hundred years thereafter, Armenia became the subject of shifting powers within the region as Parthia, Persia and Rome successively gained and lost control. By the 4th century AD, Rome and Persia had divided Armenia between them, with western Armenia becoming a province of the Roman Empire. Eastern Armenia, roughly corresponding to the area occupied by the present day state, was ruled by Persia.

Although Christianity had been present in the region since the 1st century AD, but was adopted as the state religion in the 4th century, around the same time as the Roman emperor Constantine converted. This was no easy transition – the current king, Trdat, had the Christian Gregory the Illuminator imprisoned in a snake filled pit at Khor Virap for many years for his refusal to renounce the faith, before eventually accepting it and declaring it to be the state religion. The Armenian Church became a separate church from both Catholicism and the Eastern Orthodox faith, establishing a tradition that continues today with the Armenian Apostolic Church, having rejected the rulings of the Council of Chalcedon on the dual nature of Christ.

From the 7th to the 9th centuries, Armenia fell to the same fate as Georgia, invaded and occupied by Arab armies. This was a dark time for Armenian Christianity, as Armenians were put under pressure to convert to Islam, and Christian images were destroyed. However towards the end of the 9th century, the Armenian monarchy was restored under Ashot I. Subsequent power struggles led to disunity, although this was also a time when Armenian culture flourished, with great achievements in literature and architecture. The weakened state fell under Byzantine control, and was then invaded by Seljuk Turks in the 11th century. Under the Seljuks, cities were destroyed and Armenia saw a mass exodus of its people. A brief series of campaigns by Georgia, often in conjunction with Armenian soldiers, vanquished the Turkish forces, but this was to be short-lived. The 13th and 14th centuries saw Armenia conquered and ruled by Mongols, Mamluks and Turkmen powers.

Due to its strategic significance, Armenia was much fought over by Ottoman and Persian forces between the 16th and 18th centuries, with Yerevan changing hands no less than fourteen times between 1513 and 1737. As would be expected, the Armenian population suffered greatly, their towns and farms destroyed and the population forcibly moved around to deprive the enemy of any supplies. The 18th century saw that great power to the north, Russia, expand its empire into the Caucasus region, a situation which led to the end of Persian rule, with territory being divided between Russian and Ottoman Turkey. A significant point though is that Persia retained control of the small territory of Nagorno Karabagh, a situation that was to have far reaching consequences. Under Russia, Christian Armenia was treated more favourably, and Armenians that had been dispersed widely in the surrounding area began to return. However, conditions remained difficult for those Armenians remaining under Ottoman control, the sultan determined to promote Islam at the expense of Christianity by repressive measures and harsh taxes. Armenians were expected to send their sons to become soldiers in the sultan’s armies and were generally mistreated by the local pashas.

Conflict between Russia and Turkey in the 19th century, including the Crimean War, led to various parts of Armenia being ceded and then taken back by each competing power. Russia’s expansion into the region was meanwhile causing considerable concern in Britain, anxious to prevent it from getting a foothold on the routes to India. Although strategically allied to Turkey, there were serious concerns in Britain about how Christian Armenians were faring under Ottoman rule. Turkey saw Armenians as being potential supporters of Russia, given that they shared a common faith, and instituted ever more repressive measures, leading in turn to uprisings against the ruling power which were met with brutality. Massacres of Armenians became commonplace – during the pogroms of 1894-96, an estimated 300,000 were slaughtered. Despite protestations, western Europe largely stood by and watched. Although nowhere near as severe, conditions in Russian controlled Armenia were also far from ideal, with Russia being determined to crush any nationalist sentiments.

Armenia’s darkest hour can be found during World War I. Russia, joining the Allied forces against Ottoman Turkey and the Kaiser’s Germany, was ever more a threat, and suspicions of Armenian collusion with the enemy reached their zenith with a policy of genocide. Although denied by the Turkish government to this day, it is largely accepted that this was a cohesive and state sponsored policy. Armenians were moved en masse to the deserts of Syria and Mesopotamia on forced marches. Those that survived were massacred or left to the predations of local tribes and the fierce conditions of the desert. Altogether, well over a million Armenians died during this time. The Armenian genocide, little talked about or even known of in the west, forms an integral part of Armenian national consciousness today.

The Russian Revolution of 1917 and the subsequent withdrawal of Tsarist forces led to Armenians fighting the Turks alone, winning a number of victories and gaining a strong enough to position to declare themselves independent in 1918. However by 1920, Turkish forces invaded once more and Armenia also found itself under pressure from Bolsheviks. The situation was untenable for the newly formed state and Armenia found itself once more under foreign rule, preferring the Bolsheviks to Turkey. Under Russia, large parts of historical Armenia, including its ancient capital Ani and Mt Ararat which are considered to be the spiritual heart of the nation, were transferred to Turkey – an enormous blow for Armenia. The provinces of Nakhichevan and Nagorno Karabagh were to be incorporated into Azerbaijan, a situation which was reinforced under Stalin’s policies of ‘divide and rule’ in order to stop any local unity against Soviet imperialism.

Armenia during this time saw a growth of development, especially in Yerevan where impressive buildings and city squares were created. However Armenia also suffered as the rest of the Soviet Union, falling victim to Stalin’s vicious purges and the disastrous economic policies often implemented. In 1990, Armenia finally became an independent state after centuries of foreign domination. Its most pressing foreign policy issue was presented by the territory of Nagorno Karabagh, largely populated by ethnic Armenians but claimed as part of Azerbaijan. Three years of war saw Azerbaijan driven out although the status of the territory has still not been formalised. As a result, both Azerbaijan and Turkey closed their land borders with Armenia, a situation which remains in place today and imposes serious consequences on Armenia’s ability to trade with Europe.

Armenia today is a nation that surprises. Its ancient churches and monasteries, with black frock clad priests lie within a stone’s throw of cosmopolitan Yerevan, where young girls wear designer sunglasses and miniskirts. Its monuments are among some of the oldest Christian buildings constructed, bearing witness to its long, turbulent and diverse history. The wide boulevards of Yerevan lead to museums containing age old holy texts, imposing Soviet style statues and modern bars. The most amazing thing about Yerevan is that despite all of its invasions, incursions and occupations, its people retain an immensely strong sense of national identity, an identity that the west is largely ignorant of. Explore Armenia and open yourself up to a world you never knew existed.